In a message dated 10/12/2003 10:19:44 AM Pacific Standard Time,
owner-mgs-digest@autox.team.net writes:
> The split pin small end connecting
> rod torque tolerence is 25lbs
> according to the manual. I confused the gudgeon or lower rod end bearing
> tolerance and made the split pin 35lbs.
> Does anyone think I have caused a reason to be concerned
> for reliability for over tightening by 10lbs of torque? The small end
> conncting rod split pin bolt were brand new and made of better qualiy then
> the originals.
>
If you are using non-stock bolts, you must be guided by the proper torque
specs for those bolts, not what the manual says you should use for the original
factory bolts. If you have over-torqued them by any significant amount, take
it apart and toss the bolts - it is a lot cheaper than having them 'toss'
themselves at some future date. I use grade 8 bolts.
> The other question I have is do most of you engine
> rebuilders for this vintage engine recommend loctite for these applications
> on split pin and gudgeon pin to keep the bolts from coming out.
>
> There was a new split washer on the small end connecting
> rods and mainbearing caps but Im wondering if its throwing my torque wrench
> readings out of spec when tightening.
>
The thing that throws the readings off the most are those stupid soft metal
locktabs on the big ends. I don'y use them.
Bolt lube especially under the head will give you higher effective torque
figures, but also much more reliably reproducible figures - I use it without
fail.
There are 2 schools on Loctite - pretty hard to use it if you have already
used assembly lube.
And just to throw out a point to cause some debate - clamped small ends are
superior to full floating ones as long as the structural limitations are not an
issue. A full floating pin can cause untold damage if the circlips let go,
although you can use Teflon buttons etc. to prevent that.
For that reason, I opt for the late MGB press fit pin style of rod over the
full floaters when building a 5 main.
Bill
(yes, I know, Carellos are even better, but new factory rods when properly
prepared are quite good, and I ain't running 14:1)
|