Paul,
The reason I suspected the float was too high, was that the car was having
difficulty starting (flooding). It would only start if I didn't pull out the
choke or push on the accelerator at all. Per instructions from the list, I
pulled the air chamber cover and noticed fuel leaking and draining into the
manifold. A thin black liquid was spitting out the tailpipe when I tried to
start it.
The battery is not flat; it is new and the lights all work. The see-through
fuel filter has no fuel in it. The car turns over but will not fire.
I'll check out your other suggestions when I can get back to the garage
after the semester ends(We have 2 1/2 weeks off for Christmas).
Thanks for the advice.
Monte]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Hunt (T)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: alternator light
> The alternator light coming on while you were driving indicates that it
had
> stopped charging and should have been investigated at the earliest
> opportunity. Further driving will just flatten the battery. Why did you
> think the float was too high? If the pump is not now pumping then either
> the battery is flat, the float chambers are full, you have done something
> wrong when reconnecting the carbs, or quite independently an electrical
> problem has developed. Have you tried starting the car anyway? What
> happens? If other circuits e.g. lights still work then the battery is OK.
> Does the fuel gauge work when you turn on the ignition? If not there is a
> problem in the switch area. If that works then check the fuel-pump
cut-out
> hasn't tripped, there should be an electrical one on the passenger
toe-board
> somewhere, and possibly a mechanical one in the same area between pump and
> carbs. Disconnect a carb fuel feed pipe from a carb and direct it into a
> container. Turn on the ignition, does the pump pump? If so the problem
is
> with the carbs or ignition if it cranks but won't start. If no fuel flow
> there is a 12v and ground supply to the electrical end of the pump that is
> accessible from the boot/trunk. If so manually short out the points and
> flick them open with a screwdriver, does that do anything?
>
> Not much point in looking for the alternator problem until you have the
> engine running again.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>
> To: "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: alternator light
>
>
> > A few weeks ago was the last time I drove the 79 after installing a new
> > battery. As I was nearing home the alternator light came on and stayed
> on.
> > A few days ago, I took the HIF carbs off to adjust a float that was too
> > high, reinstalled them and tried to start the car. The fuel pump (SIU)
is
> > now not pumping. I rapped on the pump from underneath a few times to no
> > avail and am going to start to try to track down the problem in the next
> few
> > days. I suppose I will start by looking at the pump points, but I could
> use
> > a few other pointers, especially dealing with the alternator. Could the
> > alternator light being on have anything to do with the fuel pump
problem?
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