Oil on the weights and springs pivot points and down the centre of the
shaft. Grease on the felt pad of the points. The vacuum capsules can take
a good bit of suck to move them even a little, up to 15 in. Hg. although
some are as low as 8. Originally a US chrome bumper 74 would have had an
18V 672/673 engine with a 25D4 41491 distributor with up to 10 degrees of
(crankshaft) vacuum advance starting at 10 in. Hg and finishing at 15.
Rubber bumper cars would have had the 45D4 distributor. With either the
important thing is that you can suck on the pipe and the capsule holds a
vacuum. If you can continually draw air through it it is punctured, and
even though it may move a bit it will not give the correct characteristics.
The capsule should be connected to the inlet manifold and not the carbs,
making it easy to see if it is giving the correct maximum advance (simply
measure the timing with it connected and disconnected) although you would
need to use a vacuum gauge and an air bleed screw arrangement to see if the
starting and finishing points are correct. But basically if it has the
correct numbers stamped on the can (i.e. 10-15-5 in the above example, the
'5' represents distributor degrees which are half crankshaft degrees) and it
is not punctured it should be OK.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Spaeth" <jasonspaeth@hotmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 6:23 PM
Subject: Distributor
> ... What type of oil/grease do I use on the
> bearings and on the weights? Also, the vacuum advance moves slightly but
> only when a lot of vacuum is applied. How easily should this move and how
> much movement is enough?
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