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Re: Rust proofing

To: "Larry Daniels" <>,
Subject: Re: Rust proofing
From: "Paul Hunt" <>
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 10:56:35 +0100
If you pour it in it will pour straight out again, unless you block up the
drain holes, which is why a long cavity injector spray pipe is usually used.
There is usually one hole by the A-post, and if you are going to pour it in,
drains blocked, then allow the excess to run out again this will fill the
*outer* cavity (all bar the top of the turned up section at the very back
which rarely rots anyway, or at least only after the rest has crumbled away)
if the car is level and the 'stuff' remains liquid.  Waxoyl rapidly goes
thixotropic unless the panels and ambient conditions are hot, and a lot
won't run back out again but will drip on hot days for years.  For the inner
cavity you will need to drill a similar hole on the other side of the door
seal i.e. in the cabin, and I think there are more drain holes in the castle
rail.  You will also need to treat the *outside* of the outer sill panel
where it goes behind the lower portions of the front are rear wings, by
removing the splash guard behind the front wheel and the trim panel behind
the door, and spraying a very liquid solution in the narrow gap between the
two skins, I use clean engine oil there.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Where do you
> pour the rust inhibitor of choice into the sills?  I see a hole in front
> the sill plate on each side -- are their other places to make sure it gets
> all through the sills?  Any other places on the car this should be done?

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