As they say....another learning experience.
Best practice is to note the position of the rotor, even though the
distributor won't go back in place fully if it is180 degrees out.
Also, though it does seem more efficient to replace all the things
that could cause the stumbling and dying, that makes diagnosis of a
future problem, like not starting, more difficult than if you made only
one change at a time.
Possibility is that the distributor is not fully seated---see if you
can turn the rotor with your fingers. Since you removed the clamp
bracket it _should_ be OK, but test it to be sure.
Could be that the tiny braided wire inside the cloth wrapped ground
wire has broken. Test continuity or just replace the thing.
Make sure that washer is really in there where it belongs---I dropped
one once, didn't see it drop, spent hours chasing other problems as I was
certain that the washer was present. It was present, only it was under
the moving plate.
Do you have a timing light? You can use it to test that you are
getting spark on #1 cylinder (or any other) and then than #1 is firing at
the timing mark. It will fire at the timing mark if distributor is 180
out, but being 180 out isn't that likely if distributor rotor won't turn
with finger grip effort.
Double check that wires are going to correct sparkplugs. Distributor
rotates anti-clockwise. Once you establish which is #1, then it's 3-4-2
as it turns.
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 13:52:10 -0500 "MonteMorris" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Several weeks ago the 67B started sputtering and dying. After waiting