The usual cause of bogging-down when you try to accelerate, especially if it
starts and idles just fine, is a non-functioning damper i.e. lack of oil in
the reservoir for SUs. An vacuum leak would normally affect starting and
idling first, as you open the throttle the effect of the vacuum leak reduces
and the mixture gets over-rich. If choking it tends to improve things then
again the damper is indicated, as with a severe restriction in fuel supply
to the carb the choke would have negligible effect, except possibly when
first pulled. But if it happened immediately after working on the car it
could be other things. You mention you removed the distributor, I assume
when you put it back you reset the timing and didn't rely on putting it back
in the same place? There is another possible distributor problem that can
cause cutting-out or stumbling when the throttle is opened, particularly on
cars with manifold vacuum, and that is internal fractures in the coil wire
conductor where it passes through the body of the distributor and similar
fractures in the distributor ground wire. These flex significantly each
time the throttle is opened from idle as the points plate twists.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> My 1972 MG (which I haven't driven yet) starts and idles very nicely, but
> will not take fuel. It bogs out when I step on the accelerator.
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