Here is another example of VB at work. When they are good they are very very
good, but when they are bad..... Actually they will bend over backwards to
correct their mistakes, or to help when they can. Unfortunately, some of their
accessories have problems.
One of the problems of the MG wiring is that the headlights are not protected,
and the headlight current flows through the switch. This kit is designed to
bypass the switch and take the headlight current directly from the battery by
way of the solenoid connection. That is not clear in the instructions.
As a matter of fact the instructions are in broken English! "FOR SAFETY SAKE,
DON-T INSTALL THIS WIRE HARNESS ON OR ABOUE WHEREVER AS ENGINE, OR SOMWHERE
WILL EFFECT ANGINE WORKING."
There is a diagram of the installation which is incorrect. The danger is that
the diagram shows the feed as fused. Two problems: one, there are no fuses in
the harness and two, never fuse your headlights. Circuit breakers are what
should go in the headlamp circuit. That way when there is a short the breaker
gives you light from time to time, and you are not stranded in the dark.
While I resent having to add anything to the kit, I have a fuse holder for
bladed fuses and I'll add it to the kit. A 30 amp circuit breaker will fit
nicely in the fuse holder. I have this arrangement coming from the headlight
switch, but that doesn't solve the heavy current flowing through the switch.
The kit is simple to install. Just mount two relays on the inner fender,
connect the harness to the solenoid terminal that has the battery lead coming
from the back of the car, then just plug in the harness to the relays, your
headlights, and one of the original headlight sockets. The new headlight
sockets each have a wire you need to ground. Now the headlight switch only
controls the low amp relays, and the added circuit breaker protects the
headlights.
Too bad this isn't better thought out.
Jack
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