Did you do voltage tests? First, determine whether it is the horns that have
failed or connections in the wiring too them. If it's wiring, new horns will
make no difference. Even though both horns failed separately it could still
be connections and not the horns themselves. Each horn should have a purple
wire and a purple/black. The purple supplies 12v from the bottom fuse, the
purple/black a ground from the horn button. The purple should carry 12v all
the time. If this drops significantly when the horn button is pushed there is
a bad connection back through to the fuse. If the interior/courtesy light
goes out when the button is pushed the it is the problem is at the fusebox
itself. The purple/black should show 12v normally, dropping to 0v when the
button is pushed. Test on the horn spades themselves initially. If it only
drops part way, or doesn't drop at all, there is a bad connection back through
the horn button, and if this is in the wheel centre this could also be inside
the button, where the sliding contact on the column contacts the ring on the
back of the wheel, or the ground through the column, rack and cross-member.
Collapsible columns seem to be prone to bad grounds, as part of the problem
with mine was here and part inside the (aftermarket) wheel I opted to use a
relay to boost the voltage to the horns themselves.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
... One quit about 10 years ago, now the other one...
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