That's a lot of time, trouble and money to expend without doing a proper
diagnosis, particularly when it didn't solve the problem.
Firstly, you should have retracted the pistons, or removed the pads, and
spun the wheels. Are they the same or different now? If different it's
something to do with the hubs, not the braking system.
If they spin the same with the pistons retracted, but don't when the brakes
are applied and released, briefly slacken the bleed nipple on the binding
side. If they then spin the same, and especially if there was a spurt of
fluid when you slackened the bleed nipple, then the flex hose that side is
probably breaking down and acting as a one-way valve.
If the binding side still binds with the bleed nipple having been slackened
then retract the pistons all the way back, and have someone very slowly push
the brake pedal bit by bit while you see what the pistons are doing. If one
or both pistons on the binding wheel only start moving when the others are
pushing their pads right up against the disc, and particularly if they are
retarding their disc, then you probably have a sticking piston. It's worth
removing the pads, extending the pistons, then wrapping one turn of cord
round them dampened with brake fluid, and pulling the cord back and fore to
polish the pistons.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
> the front wheels don't rotate the same. The LH side rotates more freely
> than
> the RH side.
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