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The main difference between the earlier black label on all chrome bumper =
cars and the later blue label ODs on all rubber bumper cars is speedo =
gearing - the black label is 1280 turns per mile and the blue label is =
1000 turns - a very significant different to speedo reading if you use =
the 'other' one. This change was made on RHD cars as well and they =
always had OD on 3rd and 4th. OD was restricted on North American spec =
cars only for the 1977 year on as part of emissions reduction, tied in =
with the 4th gear only vacuum advance system.
But never mind swapping the OD, it beggars belief that they could give =
it back with it still not working after having it all that time! You =
could take it back, but I wouldn't based on previous experience. You =
can check for electrical continuity by putting an ammeter in series with =
the manual switch. With the ignition on, in 4th gear, and the manual =
switch on, you should see about an amp flowing. If not then you will =
have to check for 12v on each side of the gearbox switch to see where =
you have 12v and where you don't. As they had the gearbox out to change =
the OD it's quite likely they mucked up the connections there. You can =
get at the switch by lowering the rear cross-member and going in through =
the top of the tunnel, exact method depends on which of your cars is =
involved. But first peer up from below to check the wire from the =
solenoid cover is attached via a bullet connector to the sub-harness =
that goes over the gearbox, and both spades are on the switch, it should =
be just visible.
If you DO see an amp, then the problem is mechanical or hydraulic. =
First thing would be to drop the solenoid and check that the plunger =
moves into the central position freely when powered, and the little ball =
bearing is present between plunger and cap =
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lhod.htm#5 Check all seals are sound, the =
one on the plunger is essential to develop pressure. After that really =
it needs a high-pressure gauge to measure the pressure. You could =
remove the pressure relief valve assembly and check it is complete and =
correctly assembled http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/goc.htm#3, ditto the =
pump, but you would still need the gauge to see if you have pressure or =
not.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
The only difference is that the blue label unit only functions in 4th =
gear, not 3rd and 4th. Maybe you should try disabling the lockout switch.
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY=20
style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; =
-webkit-line-break: after-white-space"=20
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The main difference between the earlier black label =
on all=20
chrome bumper cars and the later blue label ODs on all rubber bumper =
cars is=20
speedo gearing - the black label is 1280 turns per mile and the blue =
label is=20
1000 turns - a very significant different to speedo reading if you use =
the=20
'other' one. This change was made on RHD cars as well and they =
always had=20
OD on 3rd and 4th. OD was restricted on North American spec cars =
only for=20
the 1977 year on as part of emissions reduction, tied in with the 4th =
gear only=20
vacuum advance system.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>But never mind swapping the OD, it beggars belief =
that they=20
could give it back with it still not working after having it all that=20
time! You could take it back, but I wouldn't based on previous=20
experience. You can check for electrical continuity by putting an =
ammeter=20
in series with the manual switch. With the ignition on, in 4th =
gear, and=20
the manual switch on, you should see about an amp flowing. If not =
then you=20
will have to check for 12v on each side of the gearbox switch to see =
where you=20
have 12v and where you don't. As they had the gearbox out to =
change the OD=20
it's quite likely they mucked up the connections there. You can =
get at the=20
switch by lowering the rear cross-member and going in through the top of =
the=20
tunnel, exact method depends on which of your cars is involved. =
But first=20
peer up from below to check the wire from the solenoid cover is attached =
via a=20
bullet connector to the sub-harness that goes over the gearbox, and both =
spades=20
are on the switch, it should be just visible.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If you DO see an amp, then the problem is mechanical =
or=20
hydraulic. First thing would be to drop the solenoid and check =
that the=20
plunger moves into the central position freely when powered, and the =
little ball=20
bearing is present between plunger and cap <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lhod.htm#5";>http://www.mgb-stuff.org.=
uk/lhod.htm#5</A> =20
Check all seals are sound, the one on the plunger is essential to =
develop=20
pressure. After that really it needs a high-pressure gauge to =
measure the=20
pressure. You could remove the pressure relief valve assembly and =
check it=20
is complete and correctly assembled <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/goc.htm#3";>http://www.mgb-stuff.org.u=
k/goc.htm#3</A>,=20
ditto the pump, but you would still need the gauge to see if you have =
pressure=20
or not.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>The only difference is that the =
blue label=20
unit only functions in 4th gear, not 3rd and 4th. Maybe you should try =
disabling the lockout switch.</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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