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Re: [Mgs] Running hot

To: rolindsay@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Running hot
From: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 13:40:24 -0500
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com>
Hi Rick,
   Those of us shivering at 9 degrees this morning, with a wind blowing, almost 
wish we had your problem.
   Same temp at radiator neck and â??stat housing suggests that the thermostat 
is working, though if you have any doubt about it and do not know its age, you 
might consider replacing it anyway. 
   Were you able to measure top/bottom, left/right the radiator core 
temperature? If temp does not reduce from top to bottom, or there are different 
temps at the same distance down from top, you could suspect the radiator.    I 
have not had stellar success with radiator cleaning products. My recommendation 
is to take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and serviced.
   If you wanted to try a cleaning product, you know there is a mess about to 
happen, so first take a garden hose and flush the heater, shielding the 
distributor first.  A surprising amount of sediment is often found in the 
heater, usually more than is in the radiator. Re-connect the hoses and use 
whatever your nearby auto parts shop suggests.  
   What do you know about this water pump? Chances are that original has been 
replaced at least once, and there are different qualities of replacements.  If, 
when your bring up engine temp from cold, with the rad cap off, you do not see 
some swirling in top of the radiator, the water pump is suspect. 
   Last week, before the weather turned bitter, some of us were invited to 
check out a 1978 MGB with two HIFs installed. Engine was smooth at idle, baulky 
at acceleration with no load, stalled at acceleration when in gear.  HIFs were 
balanced, piston-lift test was OK, spark plugs showed good mixture, timing was 
what the label said it should be. Hmmm. Distributor advance was OK too.  Double 
hmmm.   Answer: Car was gift to new owner by wife, who had not driven it.  DPO 
had â??tunedâ?? engine, but set the distributor to the marks â??- with vac hose 
connected.  We disconnected the hose, plugged the manifold connection, rotated 
distributor about 25 degrees to test, and it fired right up. Set per specs, the 
engine purred.  
Bob


> On Jan 29, 2021, at 9:12 PM, rolindsay@yahoo.com wrote:
> 
> Hello friends. I haven't written to bother you for a long time, but now I do 
> so because I need advice. My recently resurrected '72 MGB's engine runs hot. 
> It doesn't boil over but it 'overheats'. Here are the details from two tests.
> 
> 1972 MGB, idling from cold start, bonnet open, 50:50 antifreeze mix, heater 
> valve open, new water pump, flushed radiator, 10# radiator cap, timing set 
> correctly, air:fuel ratio set correctly, carbs balanced.
>  
> First day tests, w/o electric fan on:
> 
> Time
> Since     Coolant            Gauge
> Start      Temperature   Reading
> -----------+â??--------------------+--â??----------
> 0 min         71°F             minimum
> 1 min         72°F             minimum
> 5 min         160°F           1/4 scale
> 10 min       195°F           5/8 scale
> 15 min       220°F           7/8 scale
> 
> 
> Second day tests, with electric fan on:
> 
> Time
> Since     Coolant             Gauge
> Start      Temperature    Reading
> -----------+â??--------------------+--â??----------
> 0 min         63°F             minimum
> 1 min         64°F             minimum
> 5 min         159°F           1/4 scale
> 10 min       195°F           5/8 scale
> 15 min       228°F           edge of 'H'
> 
> Conclusions:
> 1. Engine starts easily, idles smoothly, and runs great.
> 2. No boil over in either test case.
> 3. Electric fan 'on' cannot overcome whatever is causing the car to run hot.
> 4. Temperatures measured at top of thermostat housing, but verified to be the 
> same at the radiator top neck.
> 5. Charge is neither lean nor rich.
> 6. Timing is set correctly.
> 
> What product might I use to flush debris from the block and head, if that is 
> indeed the problem? Thoughts? And thanks.
> 
> -Rick, in Houston, TX
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