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Re: [Mgs] Ride height

To: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
Date: Tue, 04 May 2021 09:42:34 -0400
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl> <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul> <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl> <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul> <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl> <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul> <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com> <20210503180920.db8IltUneliJZdb8Jlc0dF@mx3.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net> <E77E3CE7EBCD4BA8BAD37D8D2249A422@paul> please include it with any abuse report
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Yeah, good point.  Sorry about the slip up.  I forgot the lower pin 
for the rebound strap is on the axle housing.

Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with 
too much arch (and too high spring rate).  Theory of a leaf spring is 
that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.  This 
gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist 
and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.  It just rubs me 
the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to 
accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.


At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car 
>that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.  So 
>when you fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the 
>axle and the rebound straps become slacker not more taut.  The bump 
>rubber on the body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, 
>so the damper can't be 'compressed' any more than it was 
>before.  And with the same straps the damper can't be extended any 
>more than previously either.
>
>Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well cause 
>the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering 
>blocks will reduce or eliminate that.
>
>PaulH.


>----- Original Message -----
>Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but 
>do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis 
>frame.  You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not 
>correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are 
>attached to the lower spring mounting plate).
>
>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you 
>will be royally screwed on handling when driving.  It will pick a 
>rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe 
>oversteer (very dangerous condition).  And if you install longer 
>rebound straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.

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<html>
<body>
<font size=3>Yeah, good point.&nbsp; Sorry about the slip up.&nbsp; I
forgot the lower pin for the rebound strap is on the axle
housing.<br><br>
Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with too
much arch (and too high spring rate).&nbsp; Theory of a leaf spring is
that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.&nbsp; This
gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist and
misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.&nbsp; It just rubs me
the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to
accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.<br><br>
<br>
At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:<br>
</font><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>The lower
mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was the
subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.&nbsp; So when you fit
lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and the
rebound straps become slacker not more taut.&nbsp; The bump rubber on the
body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't
be 'compressed' any more than it was before.&nbsp; And with the same
straps the damper can't be extended any more than previously either.<br>
</font><font size=3>&nbsp;<br>
</font><font size=2>Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height
may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but
lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.<br>
</font><font size=3>&nbsp;<br>
</font><font size=2>PaulH.</font></blockquote><br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=3>----- Original
Message ----- <br>
</font>
<dl>
<dd>Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but
do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis
frame.&nbsp; You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not
correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached
to the lower spring mounting plate).<br><br>

<dd>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will
be royally screwed on handling when driving.&nbsp; It will pick a rear
tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer
(very dangerous condition).&nbsp; And if you install longer rebound
straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
</dl></blockquote></body>
</html>

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