-- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --
In corresponding with Will Zehring he mentioned how the Morgan list has
been inactive. With my holiday shopping over and all my cars running I
thought I'd post a little tech tip .
Since many Morgan owners will be putting the Mog up for the winter here
is a little something to look at and correct if needed before spring.
When was the last time you changed the "D' block on the doors?
The "D" block is the rubber bumper at the base of the rear of the door
on pre 1970 Morgans.
The block fits into a cup on the rear door pillar. It serves two
purposes
1. It takes up the weight of the door *(and your arm when it is resting
on the door)
2. It acts as a stop for the lower part of the door when closing, and
allows the latch to load against the striker plate.
The door is known as a "Slam and Jam" type ( The factory's term not
mine) and is designed so the D block will seat in the cup about 1/4 to
3/8 of an inch before the latch catches on the the striker plate . Thus
the door has to be sprung to get the latch to engage. This is what
keeps the door from rattling and provides the 'snap open' feature when
the latch is undone.
The 'D' block, being of rubber, wears quickly since it rubs on the cup
with each closing. Once the block wears enough the weight of the door
and your arm will pull on the hinges causing the famous Morgan Droopy
Door syndrone.
If the "D" block is only worn on the bottom you can double the life by
simply switching the blocks from side to side.
I always buy them in lots of a half dozen and change them out annually.
This allows me to simply give the door a push and it closes without
the common lift and shut action.
A second rubber dot is located in at the top of the door ( on the front
sill) and is known as the " Anti-rattle Stop" ( again the fractory's
term) this does not wear as much as the 'D' block but I am always
amazed at how many great looking Morgans have a old chewed up stop.
Lastly, when storing the car for a long period of time don't fully
latch the door. Close it to the fist (safety) catch. This will not only
allow the latch tongue to press against the striker plate thus holding
the weight off the hinges, but also keeps the door from taking a set by
sitting in the sprung state for a long period of time.
If you look at the trailing edge of a good door, when unlatched, from
the rear of the car you will notice that the top sits about 1/4 to 3/8
inch further out from the quarter panel than the bottom. On older
doors which have had bad 'D' blocks and loose hinges for quite a while,
the bottom of the door will often be further out than the top. This is
caused by the 'D' block not seating correctly in the cup and thus
a'reverse set' warps the door ending any spring action and causing the
door bottom to sit futher out than the top.
I hope I have not made this too confusing .
Have a Happy Holiday
Bob Nogueira
1964 Plus 4
1961 Plus 4 DHC
1959 Plus 4 (Special)
1974 MGBGT
??? Issetta
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