Some of you have mentioned this problem. I addressed this somewhat in
one of my articles on the web page. The easiest thing to do is to
make a shim for the affected area. However, the kick up at the rear
of the chassis is very common. (Note I had my car on stands for
almost 3 years and I dont' think it hurt it a bit.) The kick up
at the rear appears to be a result of the manufacturing.
Next, appologize for the length of this post and sending it to the entire
list. I usually don't do that. However, I don't know
when this will get put up on the Web page so I'm sending the text
portion of an article that was sent to me. (I appologize as I have
forgotten who sent me the article. They were going to check
to see if there were any accompaning pictures. Apparently they have gotten
busy like me, and haven't had a chance to presue the information.
Hope this helps.
John
-----------
Kick-Up Cure, from bob adair
Formatted for the Morgan Web page by John T. Blair
If you have an older Morgan which you drive (not a garage queen), there
is a
good chance it has kick-up on each side of the chassis from the rear axle
rearwards.
This is caused over time by flexing of the chassis and bottoming out of the axle
shaft housing on the chassis. The side of the chassis where the axle
housing crosses
over (hereafter referred to as the arch) will also cave inwards. The
kick-up and
cave-in will reach a point where the lobes of the lower steel plate which
the axle-
to-spring outer u-bolts pass through will rub and wear on the inside of the
chassis.
You will notice the doors and hood do not fit the same.
This malady is not restricted to older plus fours. I have seen the same on
four/fours, early plus eights, two seat roadsters as well as four seaters.
To determine the extent of kick-up and cave-in, lay a straight edge
under the
chassis from just in front of the arch to the rear, my 1959 dhc was up over
1/2 inch.
Next, run your hand across the side of the chassis under the arch area. If
you have
kick-up you will have cave-in here. My dhc has 120,000 miles on it. I have
seen
serious kick-up and cave-in on Morgan chassis with less than half the
mileage. Newer
chassis have the outer edge of the top lip turned down in the arch area, but I
believe are still vulnerable to kick-up.
You do not need to buy a new chassis. You do not need to take the body
off of
the chassis, and the rear axle unit can remain in the car. I will attempt
to explain
how I healed this malady in my garage using a 2 ton floor jack, some pieces of
timber, and adjustable steel basement post, hand tools, and a 74 year-old
friend who
has welded most of his life.
The method is to hold down one side of the rear of the chassis while
you jack up
on the underside of the chassis in the arch area. As you gradually jack
upwards, you
c-clamp the sides (explained later) and hammer and dolly the sides of the
chassis.
Using the right materials and welding techniques, the finished product will
be strong
and look very nice.
First, determine how you can hold the rear of the chassis down. If you
have tie
downs in your garage floor (most do not), you could chain it to the floor.
You could
put a timber under the length of the chassis with blocks of timber fore and
aft, then
the timber to the chassis, then jack between the timber and chassis in the
arch area.
I have a large timber running the length of the ceiling in my garage. I
placed an
adjustable steel post between the timber and the rear cross member of the
chassis.
If you don't have a timber in the ceiling, you could nail a 2x4 or 4x4
underneath 2
or 3 ceiling joists to spread the load, then place a post under it.
Position the rear of the car under or over the area where you will hold
it down.
Support the rear of the car by blocking under the chassis cross member which
is just
in front of the rear axle. remove the rear wheels, spare tire, rear shocks and
springs. Lift the axle housing off of the chassis on the side you choose to
straighten first and support it on a jack stand. You now have the caved in
arch area
of the chassis clear for healing. Place the post between ceiling and rear cross
member making sure the top of the post is temporarily attached to the
ceiling timber.
It will loosen as you straighten the chassis. Pull tight and fasten a string
underneath the chassis from the front to the rear.
Place a jack under the arch area using a 6 to 8 inch long 2x4 wood
block between
the jack and chassis to spread the pressure. slowly jack up the chassis.
The front
of the car will not lift off the floor. Release the jack and sight along
the taught
string to see how much the chassis has straightened. You will eventually
have to
jack up the arch area beyond straight as it will spring back a bit. However
as you
repeat the jacking process and have tension on the chassis, position a 1/4
inch thick
steel plate about 10 inches long shaped to fit under the arch on each side
of the
chassis, and alternating with 2 large c clamps, tighten the clamps as tight as
possible on the plates through-out the caved in area back in shape using the
clamps.
This will remove most of the cave-in and help straighten the chassis. A
hammer and
dolly will finish the job. once you have the chassis straight. With the jack
removed you can do the same to the other side. now you can make the reinforcing
pieces, without these pieces, the chassis will eventually kick-up again.
Make a template out of heavy paper of the arch area including about 2
inches of
each side. Make it so it fits right up under the arch. It will be about 7
inches
wide by 18 inches long. the 7 inches includes enough material to bend 90
degrees
under and cover the lower lip of the chassis. The 18 inch length includes
about 2
inches in front and behind the arch area. You will notice that the 2 rear shock
mounting plate bolts are covered. Not to worry! using the template, mark
around it
on 1/8 inch thick mild steel stock. It need not be thicker. Would not use
thinner.
I used a friend's metal cutting band saw to cut the two reinforcing pieces.
You will
need a power brake to bend the 1/8 inch thick steel.
Mark and drill for the 2 shock mounting plate bolt holes. Lay out and
drill 5,
1/2 inch diameter holes about equal distance and centered along the side and
bottom
lip of both pieces. Fasten the reinforcing piece to the chassis using a
c-clamp at
the rear and the 2 shock mounting plate bolts in the front. Plug weld the
holes.
Strip weld about 1 inch welds about 1 inch apart along the top of the
reinforcing
piece and along the edge of the chassis lip. My friend who has welded over
40 years
as a profession did the welding for me. He used a MIG welder. He said it
was a no-
no to weld vertically on the side of the chassis so the ends of the reinforcing
pieces are not welded.
Grind and sand the plug welds smooth, seal the open edges with 3m seam
sealer which
is paintable and really seals. Metal etch, prime, and paint to mach the chassis
paint.
Take time to spiff up the insides of the chassis while the springs are
out and
the rear axle unit is movable. Do you need new u-bolts, lower plates,
bushes, links,
and shackles for your springs and shocks? Good time to do it. Notice those
grooves
on top of the axle housings caused by the u-bolts. A good fix is to cut 2
3x3 inch
pieces of 16 gauge mild steel, roll them in a slip roll to the radius of the
axle
housing, paint them and insert under each set of u-bolts. I have done this to
several Morgans over the years and it seems to keep the u-bolts tight and
there is no
more wear on the top of the axle housings.
Reassemble springs to chassis, springs to axle, shocks to mounting
plates and u-
bolts, put the wheels back on and you and your Morgan will be anxious to go
for a
ride!
-------------
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
The one with the most toys, wins!
|