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Re: Brake Cylinder Repair

To: "Greg Solow" <Gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>,
Subject: Re: Brake Cylinder Repair
From: "Greg Solow" <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 09:30:16 -0700
Sorry,  my note about the brake lines that are hard to screw  into wheel
cylinders was not properly phrased.
 What I should have said is that the ends of the NUTS that push the flares
up against the sealing surfaces in the wheel and master cylinders are what
get mushroomed out and that prevents the threads on the nut from getting in
far enough to engage the threads in the cylinders.  If you look at the nuts,
their ends closest to the flaired end of the brake pipe, have no threads.
That portion of the nut is supposed to be smooth and straight .  That is the
area that normally gets mushroomed out from overtightening.  That is the
area that needs to be filed down so that its diameter is smaller than the
minor diameter  of  the threads.  DO NOT FILE THE ACTUAL FLAIRED END OF THE
BRAKE LINE ITSELF.  If the end of the nut is the proper diameter  and the
threads on the nut and in the cylinder are in good shape, and the nut is
carefully started STRAIGHT  into the threaded hole of the cylinder, then it
should screw right in with your fingers until it bottoms against the flaired
end of the brake pipe.  Then just snug it down with a 7/16 line wrench and
check for leakage with pressure applied to the brake pedal.
    Sorry for the misinformation in the previous E mail .

Regards, Greg Solow
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Solow <Gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
To: Werner Pels <wpels@worldnet.att.net>; Morgans@Autox. Team. Net
<morgans@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Cylinder Repair


>The hard fit is due to the ends of the steel flairs having been squashed by
>overtightening.  Girling calls for a tightning torque of 15 inch lbs. If
you
>carefully file the od of the flair you should be able to get them to thread
>into the cylinders easily with your fingers.  They should be able to be
>screwed in all the way with your fingers only.  They don't need to be very
>tight to not leak if the flairs are not deformed and the cylinders are not
>damaged.
>
>Regards, Greg Solow
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Werner Pels <wpels@worldnet.att.net>
>To: Morgans@Autox. Team. Net <morgans@autox.team.net>
>Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 2:08 PM
>Subject: Brake Cylinder Repair
>
>
>>Now that I've removed my brake and clutch master cylinders for new seals,
>>I'd like to fix it so the job is easier next time around. I find that the
>>hardest part of the process is getting the screw fittings on the steel
>lines
>>back into the cylinder in and out ports. It's difficult to line things up
>>again such that the screws catch. Is it possible to substitute flexible
>hose
>>for all or part of these lines? Or is there another answer?
>>
>>Werner
>>'70 Plus 8
>>
>>2358 Banbury Pl.
>>Walnut Creek, CA 94598
>>(925)939-7612
>>wpels@worldnet.att.net
>>
>>
>
>


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