Hi There
Were it only power to weight and the inevitability of such
mathematics ?
7500 RPM from a TR engine, I would not like to have my legs down in that
footwell, though from memory Darryl runs a real fancy engine with billet
crank and special flywheel etc. etc. not much of it ever designed by
Standard Triumph, Yup full race indeed Michael.....
I like to see these discussions pushed to the extremes of their envelopes as
there is much to learn there. I am not in the position to move on a Morgan
yet and enjoy time in contemplation of "which Morgan" I have a history
with the Ford X flow and I hanker for the sound of one on four barrel
sidedraught carbs with a suitable exhaust system, though as I`m
.....er...mature I like the idea of lazy grunt to cover for an incorrect
gear change at a crucial moment or when I`m in the mood to be lazy....... I
doubt I have what it takes to keep a tuned X flow on the cam for more than
half an hour, even if that, So I`m kinda +8 bound in my thinking, as for the
+4 I have a TR 3 in tiny bits and the "spare" engine I acquired for it
starts with the ident ME so I guess there might be a Morgan somewhere
missing it`s engine ? trikes of all types 4/4 +4 or +8 I guess it is all
about how you want to use the car where you want to use the car and your
capability to enjoy whatever model with your style of driving. There is
room for much frustration in a miss-match betwixt driver and car.. Some who
tune have little idea of the reality of the end product. Should finally
decide on a +8 and be fortunate enough to acquire one, I should not be in
the least surprised to find a "young blade" in a 4/4 passing me at any
time, though I might from time to time indulge in just a little juvenile
behaviour myself (-:
Back to 4/4`s and tuning The MSCC DG recently received the following from an
apparently knowledgeable chap, I trust I am not likely to upset anyone by
pasting it here, just thought it might be worth "sharing" ?
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I have read some of the items posted re tuning of Ford X flow motors and
decided to add a little for those "Petrol Heads" who are into non
standard motors.
I have been tuning 1600cc OHV motors for many years now and have built
them for many different applications. The first and most important step
is to decide what the finished motor is going to be used for. Its no
good throwing loads of time and cash into building a highly strung full
race engine to put into a car that's going to be used for everyday
transport, the car would be near impossible to drive at normal road
speeds and run like a pig. Engines of this nature are normally stripped
down after a couple of track days and many of the internal components
replaced ready for the next meeting.
At present my 1973 4/4 is fitted with a 711 the crank and flywheel have
been balanced, its fitted with 1300cc pistons with the valve cutouts
machined to clear the valves as it runs a high torque cam (high
lift/slow ramp). The head is ported and gas flowed (stage 2) and the
standard rocker gear is sitting on steel posts with the springs replaced
by steel spacers. Due to the nature of the cam I have fitted a vernier
sprocket to enable accurate timing which is way different from the
standard Ford GT item. Both manifolds have been opened out to match the
head porting. Ignition is provided by a Bosch electronic distributor.
This mixture of components provides a motor that can run from 25mph
upwards in top gear with loads of torque, it is fairly quick off the
mark up to 3000/3500rpm and in top gear (4speed box) it becomes
absolutely missile like from 60mph upwards.
I find this combination of tweaks gives an engine that behaves in
traffic, runs well on sedate country runs with other classics and
provides me with loads of fun giving young XR3 drivers a show of the
vanishing old tailpipe.
Note. The Bosch electronic distributor from any "Valencia" engined
1300cc Ford Escort (circa 1988) will fit directly into the 1600cc Xflow.
You must use the clamp from the original distributor. Other mods to fit
this unit are to change the ignition coil (Any CVH electronic 12v coil
will do) and change the resistor wire from the ign switch to the coil
for standard wire, this then gives 12 volts at the coil. The 3 pin plug
must also be obtained from the escort to hook up the distributor and
provide the pulse lead for the tacho.
For road use there is no need to play around with the advance curve its
near enough. But if using a really wild cam you will need to blank off
the vac advance because big cams tend to cause pulsing in the inlet
manifold which is a real pain at low revs (plays havoc with timing).
all for now Nigel
1974 4/4 Thetford (Norfolk).
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Lotus 47....... I had a real prob keeping a Renault engine cool in one of
them, and in the Scottish climate (-:
Cheers, George.
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