I believe the harmonic balancer on the 235 is a friction fit (no crank bolt).
When I overhauled my current project, I had the machinist tap the crank so I
put a bolt in. I've heard other members say that a flywheel turner is the way
to go. Good luck.
>>> Jeremy Eastman <jeastman@appliedtheory.com> 04/16 6:46 AM >>>
When I pulled the plugs on my 55 2nd 235ci and went to set the valve lash,
I couldn't seem to feel a lug nut in the crankshaft pulley to turn the
engine over with manually (I didn't have the radiator pulled, so I had to
rely on feel). After forty years, there was alot of grease packed in
there, but all I could get a good feel on was the * shaped indent in the
pulley.
Should I just be picking more grease out of there to get to the lug? It
seemed whatever space would be available inside the * would not be large
enough for a crankshaft lug. It seemed as if this was a huge keyway for
insertion of a special key that's used to turn over the crank. Or am I
going to have to take of the timing gear cover to get at anything that'll
wrench the crankshaft around?
Thanks to Grant Galbraith, Jack Halton, Dave Chapman, and Stan the Man ( I
think I covered everybody) for some good info on the leaking manifold
question. After getting a few possible solutions to the leaky manifold
seal problems (shave the head side, shave manifolds, use studs, hi-temp
gasket seal, separate mounting, or mate manifolds with no gasket) and a
pointer to Jack's xclent article, I opted for using some hi-temp gasket
seal to seal up the manifold leaks for now. I couldn't handle going
another few weeks without my truck while my head and manifold are in the
shop again.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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