Can I borrow your son. Please? My son is not interested in my project
except its how he got one of my other cars. My wife, apparently like some
other wives, is not fond being the "peddle pusher" and certainly wouldn't
be the diver. I could really use your son. I have two master cylinders for
brakes and one for the clutch.
Lonnie
----- Original Message -----
From: Claude Ramey <rameyfam@n-link.com>
To: <jelerath@us.ibm.com>; Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Solution (was Problem)
> I have my son trained and he even adds the brake fluid as he's pumping
(not
> always bad to add it thru the floorboard). He even knows ,now, not to let
up
> to quick on the pedal (fluid splashes back at ya).
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jelerath@us.ibm.com <jelerath@us.ibm.com>
> To: Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 08, 1999 2:00 PM
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Brake Solution (was Problem)
>
>
> >
> >
> >My wife is also a "certified brake-bleeding-peddle-pumper". My son has
> trained
> >two of his girl friends and one other guy. Perhaps we should develop a
> >"certificate of appreciation".....
> >
> >Jon Elerath
> >jelerath@us.ibm.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com> on 07/08/99 10:32:40 AM
> >
> >Please respond to Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
> >
> >To: "'Schorn, Tim'" <SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us>, tcape
> <tcape@weblnk.net>,
> > "oletrucks@autox.team.net" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>, "'Rob J.'"
> > <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> >cc:
> >Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >My wife is checked-out on brake bleeding. I've replaced M/Cs and W/Cs
> >enough times where she automatically pumps the pedal three times and
holds
> >for my signal then she yells out: "Hurry up and close off, so I can
release
> >the *%$!# pedal. My @#$% foot is getting tired."
> >Just thank her and give her a big hug and kiss afterwards!
> >
> >Tom B. '57 Stepside 3200
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Schorn, Tim [SMTP:SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us]
> >Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 9:55 AM
> >To: tcape; oletrucks@autox.team.net; 'Rob J.'
> >Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >
> >Rob, you are right about the marriage part!! Mityvac saved my
marriage!!!!
> >
> > Tim
> > '50 chev dlx
> >
> >> ----------
> >> From: Rob J.[SMTP:rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com]
> >> Reply To: Rob J.
> >> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 10:50 AM
> >> To: tcape; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >>
> >> Gotta wonder how you've managed to avoid doing brakes all this time!
> >> Lucky
> >> you! The procedure is actually very simple, but needs two people.
Don't
> >> know why, but my wife HATES helping. Maybe it is me yelling at her
when
> >> she
> >> lets up on the brake pedal too soon? However, the procedure really
is
> >> pretty simple.
> >> FIrst you gotta figure out where the air is coming in. Regardless,
there
> >> has to be a leak somewhere. Most likely one of the wheel cylinders.
> >> Replace the wheel cylinder or fix the leak first.
> >>
> >> To bleed: Start with a quart sized bottle of brake fluid. Open the
> >> master
> >> cylinder (access thru hole in floor). Make sure it is full (and once
you
> >> start, it is CRITICAL that it stays full). Then, starting with the
right
> >> rear wheel cylinder, you open the bleed screw (get a special brake
> >bleeder
> >> screw wrench (couple of dollars at Pep Boys)). I use a Lisle bleeding
> >> contraption (basically a plastic jar with a hose the pushes onto the
> >> bleeder
> >> screw and collects discharged fluid, and also keeps air from being
drawn
> >> in
> >> at the bleeder screw. Also under $10 and available at any of the
better
> >> stocked auto parts stores. Anyway, before starting, first makes sure
you
> >> can loosen ALL the bleeder screws. As soon as you loosen them,
> >retighten,
> >> but at least this way you KNOW they will brake (sic) (pun intended)
free.
> >> Otherwise, you will need to remove the wheel cylinder and use a vice to
> >> remove them (but then you'll also need replacement bleeder screw). Ok,
> >> all
> >> the screws are loose and retightened. Now go to the right rear wheel
> >> cylinder, hook the hose over the screw, loosen slightly the screw, then
> >> have
> >> a helper slowly push the brake pedal to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN DO
NOT
> >> RELEASE. With the pedal down, retighten the screw. Now have the
helper
> >> raise the brake pedal, pump it to build up pressure, then hold pressure
> >on
> >> it while you reloosen the screw. The pedal will slowly sink to the
> >floor.
> >> Again, have them hold in down until you retighten the screw. Then they
> >> can
> >> raise the pedal. Continue this procedure until all air bubbles stop
> >> coming
> >> out the screw and down the hose. Also, if the brakes haven't been
bleed
> >> in
> >> awhile, continue until the cloudy brown fluid is replaced by clear (new
> >> appearing) fluid. Then go to the left side wheel and repeat. Then go
to
> >> the right front and repeat, then the left front and repeat.
> >>
> >> At all times, make sure the master cylinder never runs low, otherwise
you
> >> will introduce air into the system, and then have to start the whole
> >thing
> >> over again (been there, done that - remember me saying about yelling at
> >> wife
> >> :-(
> >>
> >> Brakes are really pretty easy to learn how to do. All you have to keep
> >in
> >> mind, is that you are trying to avoid air at all costs. If the pedal
> >gets
> >> raised while the bleeder screw is open, you draw air into it (unless
you
> >> have the Lisle system in place, in which case, the hose is filled with
> >> fluid
> >> and then only fluid get sucked back in. Using the Lisle system will
> >> simplify things somewhat by preventing the need to retighten the screw
> >> with
> >> each push of the pedal. It also allows you to collect the wasted brake
> >> fluid (to later dispose of as HAZWASTE).
> >>
> >> There are tools that will power bleed the brakes by "sucking" fluid
down
> >> the
> >> lines from the master cylinder (you basically hook it up at each wheel
> >and
> >> suck fluid through the line and this makes it a one man job, but is
more
> >> costly a tool. I am thinking about getting one though as they aren't
> >REAL
> >> costly and will prevent a broken marriage perhaps.
> >>
> >> Let me know if any of this in unclear or you have any other questions.
> >>
> >> Rob
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
> >> To: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> >> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 6:48 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >>
> >>
> >> > Thanks, Rob. I've never bled the brakes before. Is that a big
> >> deal...or
> >> > something simple?? What do you do with the extra fluid that comes
out?
> >> > Will it evaporate if left on the driveway? I try to be
> >"environmentally
> >> > friendly" if at all possible. Thanks for the response.
> >> > Tom
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> >> > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> > Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 6:20 PM
> >> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > >Agreed about the air, especially if it shows up "suddenly". If
> >> bleeding,
> >> > >start at the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master and
work
> >> your
> >> > >way to the one that is closest. Especially important on the single
> >> > >reservoirs systems.
> >> > >
> >> > >Rob
> >> > >----- Original Message -----
> >> > >From: Marlene Rzepkowski <mrzepkow@rochester.rr.com>
> >> > >To: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>; Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> > >Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 1:51 PM
> >> > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >> Mushy brakes is usually air in the lines. Air can get in from a
low
> >> > >> reservoir. Try bleeding the brakes all around.
> >> > >> Dick
> >> > >> 59 Apache - 1 ton.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> -----Original Message-----
> >> > >> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
> >> > >> To: Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> > >> Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 3:25 PM
> >> > >> Subject: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >> > >>
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >Need some help on a brake problem. While driving my '47 this
week,
> >> I
> >> > >> >noticed the brakes have suddenly gotten very "spongy" and are
VERY
> >> slow
> >> > >to
> >> > >> >stop the truck. I have to mash them very hard to get the truck
to
> >> slow
> >> > >> >down. They still work, just don't stop nearly as well as before.
> >> Any
> >> > >idea
> >> > >> >what the problem is??? TIA
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941
and
> >> 1959
> >> > >> >
> >> > >>
> >> > >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> >> 1959
> >> > >>
> >> > >
> >> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> >1959
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >>
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
> >
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|