What I've been told by my paint and body guy is to have the main rubber
meet at the bottom and the lock bead meet at the top. If you have the
main rubber meet at the top it will leak, but you want to put the lock
bead in opposite to hold the joint. No professional opinion, just hear
say. My .02 worth.
Bennett Ratliff
'49 AD 3100
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul W. Franchina [SMTP:pfoxtrot@gate.net]
> Sent: Friday, July 23, 1999 11:36 AM
> To: oletrucks
> Subject: [oletrucks] Rubbers (window that is)
>
> I've got the small back window in my 58 TF truck and just got a new
> window
> rubber to replace the rock hard, leaky one that's in there now. It is
> a
> single length of molding with a separate lock bead. The one that's in
> there
> has the ends meeting at the bottom of the glass where it's been gooped
> with
> RTV to seal it. Seems to me it would be better to have the ends meet
> at the
> top of the window instead. I'll admit that the rubber leaks but not
> where
> the ends meet. What is the WOTL on this issue? I'm never going to have
> a
> concourse vehicle but I'm trying to keep it reasonably period correct.
> Was
> there a factory approved mating area or can one get continuous molding
> where this is a non-issue?
>
>
> Paul W. Franchina
> pfoxtrot@gate.net
> & Boris: 1958 Chevrolet Apache 3100 Stepside
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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