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Re: [oletrucks] More sandblasting questions.

To: "Mark Self" <markself@discover.net>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More sandblasting questions.
From: "G. Simmons" <gls@4link.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:52:01 -0800
Hi Mark,

I generally use baking soda on larger parts that won't go in the cabinet.  I
used it recently on a pair of fenders to strip paint from areas my sanding
disk did not reach, like the headlight mounting surfaces.  You can also use
baking soda to strip paint from wood without damage.

 I blast soda with a dust mask and goggles (in fact, sometimes I don't
bother with the goggles) instead of a clumsy hood.  I look like the
abominable snowman after one of these sessions, but it all cleans up easily,
and there's no sand to chew/blink.

I have a cheap little bench cabinet, in which I use glass beads.  I find
that the beads lose their edge pretty quickly, and, at least in my cabinet,
the intake tube tends to clog with detritus from the parts.  Since the clogs
are in the intake tube, I am inferring that it is not a moisture problem.  I
pull the tube off the gun and shoot air back through it for a couple of
seconds to clear it.  I have to do this every couple of minutes or so when
the beads are dirty.  One day when I am ambitious, I'll make a filter out of
something like coarse window screen, and maybe that will keep the tube
clear.

I find that the beads usually do an ok job of removing paint, although
sometimes it is too slow and sanding works better.  I do get to shiny metal
(not a polished surface, more of a satin texture, which is fine for paint
adhesion.)

The gun in my cabinet is not as good as the suction gun I bought as Harbor
Freight tools for $15 to $20.  It says "Tri-Con Cleveland 44123" on the
handle.  One of these days, I'll get around to replacing the cabinet gun
with one of these.

For moisture control, I put galvanized pipe hardlines in my workshop that
are designed to separate moisture out.  Here's my inartistic rendering:

                         __
                         |    |                top line slopes down at a
shallow angle
              ...........|....|.....................................    to
guide water toward valve
              |               |                                     |
              |            ...|..                                   |
              |           (      )  air/water filter        |
              |           (......)                                 |
valve
              |               \                                     |---o
              |                \  air hose to cabinet,
              |                     tools, etc.
              |      ___________
              |     ( compressor   )
              |---(                           )
valve     |     (___________)
         o--|


This was really easy and cheap to do, and it sure collects a lot of water.
It also eliminates a certain amount of clutter.  It could be expanded it to
have one circuit for dry air (paint and sandblasting) and one hooked up to
an oiler for air tools, or just to have multiple outlets for more than one
user, were the compressor up to it.

Regards,

Grant S.  gls@4link.net


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Self <markself@discover.net>
To: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>; Oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More sandblasting questions.


>Grant:
>    Thanks for the baking soda idea.  I have heard of it, but didn't have
>any feedback from anyone.
>    I have a 6 hp 60 gal. 10.2 cfm Campbell Hausfeld compressor.  I'm using
>a BarrelBlaster sandblasting cabinet (suction type).  I've used common
sand,
>Sarblast from DuPont and glass beads.  This combination is so slow as to be
>nearly worthless.  I talked to the BarrelBlaster people and they sent me a
>new gun and a clear pickup line.  You can see the glass beads coming up the
>pickup line, but it still is so slow that the only thing that seemed left
to
>do was to try a filter.  Next thing will be the coalescing filter and that
>is like $75.00!
>    In the TIP  catalog it show pictures of pieces (carbs and water pumps)
>that have been sandblasted for 10-15 min. and are bright shiny metal ready
>to be painted.  This is the kind of performance that i expected.  Is this
>unrealistic?  I've yet been able to take anything down to bright shiny
>metal.
>
>Mark Self
>Redlands, CA
>'55 1st 5-window 3100
>"Sentimental Journey"
>-----Original Message-----
>From: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>
>To: Mark Self <markself@discover.net>; Oletrucks list
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Date: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 8:58 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More sandblasting questions.
>
>
>>Hi Mark:
>>
>>I'm in the San Fernando Valley, and I don't have any moisture problems
with
>>sandblasting.   My compressor lines sometimes generate a little
>>condensation, but the garden variety in-line water trap seems to take care
>>of it.  Are you using pressure or suction?
>>
>>I have found that a lot of my light sandblasting jobs work quite well with
>>baking soda.  Baking soda disappears with a little hosing and is much more
>>pleasant to use than beads or sand.  You're not chewing and blinking it
for
>>days, and it washes right out of your hair.  For little jobs, you can buy
a
>>quart of it at Smart & Final, pull the lid off and stick your suction end
>>right in the jar.  You can also buy 50 lb bags from chemical suppliers in
>>various grades of coarseness.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Grant S. gls@4link.net
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Mark Self <markself@discover.net>
>>To: Oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 7:22 AM
>>Subject: [oletrucks] More sandblasting questions.
>>
>>
>>>Hey guys:
>>>    Here in So Cal the humidity seems to run about 30-50%..  Will the
>>>standard water traps take care of the moisture in the
>>compressor/sandblaster
>>>system, or do I need a coalescent filter or both?
>>>    Thamnks
>>>Mark Self
>>>Redlands, CA
>>>'55 1st 5-window 3100
>>>"Sentimental Journey"
>>>
>>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>>
>>
>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>
>

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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