They should be easy to do one at a time. If everything goes well, the tank
doesn't have to be removed. The bolts go in from the bottom and thread into
a captive nut. On mine, both bolts broke and I had to drill out the captive
nuts. The kit I got from Chevy Duty appears to be nice. It came with hex
nuts for the rear, which will work but are not as convenient as captive
nuts. Do one corner at a time. Lift the corner with a jack and slip the new
pieces into place.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bailey <billb@gamewood.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1999 12:43 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] TF Cab Mounts
> I was out in my truck the other day cruising the neighborhood when I
> noticed that when I would hit a bump I would hear this grating noise
> coming from what appeared to be right behind the seat on the passenger
> side. I investigated and it appears to me that the cab mount bushing has
> given up the ghost, I think it got hard, broke and most of it fell out.
> My questions.... who sells the best kit, from y'all's experience, for
> replacing all four of them, it looks like each vendor sells something
> different. Second question, how hard is it to do without taking the cab
> off? I don't have the work area or resources to do that right now...I
> was hoping to do it one corner at a time with the cab on the frame and
> finally..am I right that you have to remove the gas tank to change the
> back ones?... (pretty sure that you do)
> Thanks in advance..Happy New Year everyone.
>
> --
> Bill Bailey
> 57 Chevrolet 3100 - Certified Y2K compliant
> http://members.tripod.com/~oltruck/
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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