I have done a couple hundred brake jobs in my youth, back in the late 60's. That
dates me....
mostly on vehicles of similar design.....thats all that existed!!! Messy job,
glad I don't do it on a
regular basis any more...
I would take the wheel cylinders apart, pull the caps off the ends, push the
seal's and springs
out, (gush of brake fluid) Check the numbers on the seal cups they should have a
size marked
on them 11/16... 3/4... etc. Wipe out the inside of the cylinder, then take a
brake cylinder hone,
(available at any parts store 10-12 bucks) and a drill and clean up the inside
of
the cylinder, work
the hone in and out but avoid letting it come out of the cylinder (mess's up the
stones on the hone)
any rust pits (usually on the bottom of the cylinder) and the cylinder is going
to leak.
If it cleans up shiny in side, get new seals, just ask the guy behind the
counter
for the same size you
took out. ( you may be able to get a rebuild kit, includes seal cups, springs,
outer seals)
Clean the pistons, springs, and end caps (parts solvent) Reassemble, and bleed.
Note: make sure you can turn the bleeder BEFORE you rebuild, is a lot of work
just to have the bleeder break off when you go to bleed them
Good Luck
Passnb4U@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/10/00 7:39:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, rifeb@ttc.com
> writes:
>
> > Hi Jim,
> >
> > I am also restoring a 46, and need wheel cylinders. What does NAPA charge?
> >
> > Bill Rife
>
> Gonna be expensive!!!! I priced W/C's for my '59 through NAPA,.....$48
> bucks a pop.....found them for about $30 bucks for the fronts at Yosemite
> Auto parts in Modesto, Ca., one was a n EIC?, one was a Raybestos. I got my
> rears (for a newer style reaend, '64 GMC) for 12 bucks each at Kragen or
> AutoZone, forget which store.
>
> Mike
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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