I know he did not use a clear coat, but the wheel looks with a gloss similar to
that of clear coats, I recommended he use the new water based clear coat the
eastwood sells, he does not feel it necessary. I used this clear coat for the
steering column and it looks very good.
Antonio,
'53 3100
tcape wrote:
> Antonio, did your friend use a clear coat over the acrylic appliance enamel?
> Just wondering if clear coat is necessary if you use the this paint.
> Tom Caperton
> 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> tcape@weblnk.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Antonio R. Tijerino" <antonio@innercite.com>
> To: "Grant Galbraith" <trks@javanet.com>
> Cc: "Brian Stephens" <intubated@earthlink.net>; "Dale Withroder"
> <dale@pro-mentoring.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 1:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
>
> > A friend of mine restored a '48 GMC truck, for his steering wheel he used
> Acrylic
> > Enamel appliance paint from a rattle can, his steering wheel looks
> incredible, he
> > was able to get the exact color (Almond) of the original wheel. He even
> offered to
> > restore my steering wheel for me, he is retired and since he finished his
> truck, he
> > offered to help with mine. This guy does not have access to a computer and
> wants me
> > to post pictures of his truck to the web, I will let you know when I post
> them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Antonio
> > '53 3100
> >
> > Grant Galbraith wrote:
> >
> > > Yes, I've used the paint. It is a very nice match to the original but is
> > > lacquer, as the original was. I think Bob can match it to an enamel
> which might
> > > be more durable. Mine has worn off in a couple heavily used spots after
> two
> > > years and 25K. You can still mail Bob with, as he puts it, factory
> restoration
> > > questions. I know he sells a paint chip set, which may include steering
> wheel
> > > paint.
> > > A second problem I had with my wheel restoration was tiny cracks or
> checking.
> > > I routed and filled any obvious crack but the wheel also had hundreds of
> small
> > > checks. They sanded off nicely but have returned.
> > >
> > > Grant
> > > 50 Chevy 3100
> > > 52 GMC 150
> > >
> > > Brian Stephens wrote:
> > >
> > > > All right! I am glad to see this list reverting to the task at hand;
> old
> > > > trucks and our work on them.
> > > > Jim Carter sells paint which he says is the specific color for the
> steering
> > > > column , wheel, etc. Has anyone used this product? At $35 a pint,
> does
> > > > anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Where is Bob ADler when you
> need him!
> > > > Brian Stephens
> > > > 49 3104
> > > > Owasso, OK
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>
> > > > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 2:05 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> > > >
> > > > > should the steering wheel be black, or the interior color?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > At 02:28 PM 12/05/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > > > > >Mike, I plan to put one coat of primer on the wheel, then 2-3 coats
> of
> > > > black
> > > > > >enamel.....then 2-3 coats of clearcoat. Some of the other list
> members
> > > > used
> > > > > >this process and say it seems to work for years. I'll post a
> report on
> > > > the
> > > > > >process as soon as I'm finished. HOPEFULLY, it will be a positive
> > > > report.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Larry Kephart has an excellent article on his webpage regarding
> steering
> > > > > >wheel restoration. The address is........
> > > > > >http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm Thanks Larry for
> doing
> > > > such
> > > > > >a great job documenting the process.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Good luck with your wheel, Mike!
> > > > > >Tom Caperton
> > > > > >47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > > >From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
> > > > > >To: <tcape@weblnk.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > > > >Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 11:58 AM
> > > > > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair....shaping wheel
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >> In a message dated 12/5/00 7:13:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > > > >> writes:
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> > Well, I'm moving right along with the restoration of the
> steering
> > > > wheel
> > > > > >on
> > > > > >> > my '47-2. I washed the wheel with Fast Orange hand cleaner
> and got
> > > > all
> > > > > >the
> > > > > >> > gunk off. I then cut the cracks with a Dremel tool to make
> room for
> > > > > >the
> > > > > >> J-B
> > > > > >> > Weld. Now that the J-BW has dried, I need to cut it down and
> shape
> > > > it
> > > > > >to
> > > > > >> > the wheel. What's the best tool to use in doing this....round
> > > > > >> > file....rasp...other tools?? This is my first time working
> with J-B
> > > > > >Weld,
> > > > > >> > but I assume I won't be able to just sand it down to where it
> blends
> > > > > >with
> > > > > >> > the shape of the wheel. I'd sure appreciate your help with
> this.
> > > > And
> > > > > >a
> > > > > >> > special thanks to all the folks who supplied the information
> on
> > > > > >restoring
> > > > > >> > the wheel. I wouldn't have attempted this if you hadn't
> jumped in
> > > > with
> > > > > >> such
> > > > > >> > good instructions and advice.
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> > One additional comment and question......When I cut the cracks
> out
> > > > with
> > > > > >the
> > > > > >> > Dremel tool, I think I cut them too deep. I cut all the way
> down to
> > > > > >the
> > > > > >> > metal core....which left a pretty deep rut to fill. Is it
> necessary
> > > > to
> > > > > >cut
> > > > > >> > that far down? Can you just cut just a little way down into
> the
> > > > crack
> > > > > >and
> > > > > >> > still get the J-B Weld or epoxy to stick in there OK and not
> crack
> > > > > >again in
> > > > > >> > the future? I'll soon be restoring the steering wheel on a
> '29 F**d
> > > > > >and
> > > > > >> > don't want to make the same mistakes twice. Thanks in advance
> for
> > > > your
> > > > > >> > help!
> > > > > >> > Tom Caperton
> > > > > >> > 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > > > >> > tcape@weblnk.net
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Hi Tom,
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> I actually saw a guy cut the whole section of the crack
> out...made
> > > > about
> > > > > >a
> > > > > >> 1/2inch gap, then filled with an epoxy-type stuff...then used a
> narrow
> > > > > >> sanding drum on a drill to shape it...don't know if it was
> necessary,
> > > > but
> > > > > >he
> > > > > >> sure came out with a nice looking match.
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> What are you using for paint that won't come off in your hands?
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Mike
> > > > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Dale Withroder PH: 1-888-233-8469
> > > > > dale@pro-mentoring.com FAX: 1-800-669-1132
> > > > > multimedia development http://www.pro-mentoring.com
> > > > > Professional Mentoring, LLC ICQ: 13411058
> > > > > --
> > > > > Between two evils, I always pick the one I never tried before.
> > > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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