If you use a new crush sleeve, you don't really need
to use a torque wrench to tighten the nut...because
it will take more than the minimum torque to crush
the sleeve! So, you tighten the nut until the slack
is just about gone, then tighten it just a little
bit more, and check the bearing preload, then
tighten a little more and check, etc, till you get
the preload you need.
To check the preload, you MUST do it from the pinion
nut! not the drums. Also, you need to take out the
axles and carrier to replace the crush
sleeve...because you need to pull the front pinion
bearing off to get to it, and the pinion bearings
are a press fit on the pinion stem. So, you pull
out the carrier, pull the yoke off the pinion (using
an appropriate puller), and then drive the pinion
out of the housing (to the rear).
To measure the pinion preload, you need a small
torque wrench, of the dial or beam type (a clicker
won't work). Inch pounds...not foot pounds! 12
inch pounds equals one foot pound. So the desired
pinion bearing preload is one to two foot pounds.
This looks like a hassle, doesn't it? :) no
wonder most folks farm out rearend work.
59s in AZ
> Hi Jim,
> Thanks for all the info and of course that does pose another question...
> I've looked through some driveline sites and found that the pinion bearing
> preload should be about 14-19 inch lbs, do I just use the monster wrench to
> crush the sleeve and test occassionally till it takes 14-19 ft lbs to turn
> the drums through the rearend? Meaning i use an ordinary torque wrench on
> the pinion nut and see how much it takes for it to move while letting the
> yoke turn freely? Thanks again... wayne
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