Make sure you tin the end of the soldering iron (melt
some solder on the tip) to aid in heat transfer.
Also, when cleaning the tip, a better way to do this
is to take a clean (new)sponge and cut a small hole in
the center, about 1/2, then wet the sponge. You don't
want the sponge to be soaked, just damp. After the
iron is up to temp tin it liberally with solder then
wipe the tip across the whole in the sponge. The
rosin in the solder will clean the tip (most of the
time). Then tin the tip again and you should get lots
of heat transfer to the solder joint. I am an
electronics technician for a World Wide Electronics
corp. and this is the way our solder stations are set
up. Good luck.
--- Bruce Kettunen <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> Should be OK with a 100 W iron, though a hotter one
> would work a
> little better.
> You should be using resin core eutectic solder, made
> especially for
> electronics. You can get it at Radio Shack.
> Regular flux soldered
> joints will eventually corrode when used for
> electrical stuff.
> The trick is to tin the wire ends first. Start with
> a clean iron.
> The easiest way to clean an iron is to wipe it in
> lots of dry cotton
> cloth. Watch so you don't burn your hand or start a
> fire. Don't
> use synthetic cloth, it melts. An old all cotton T
> shirt works real
> Strip the insulation away from about 1/2 inch of the
> end of each
> wire. Twist the wire a little to make it a stable
> diameter, but
> leave it straight.
> Let the iron heat up. Hold the soldering iron under
> the end of wire
> and when the wire starts getting hot, touch the
> solder to the top
> of the wire. When the melting temperature is
> reached the solder
> will melt and wick into the wire. Get the whole
> wire end saturated
> in solder. Repeat this with the other wire.
> Now, use needle nosed pliers to make a hook in each
> wire end and
> hook them together. Crimp the hooks with the pliers
> so the joint
> is mechanically tight. Touch the iron to the joint
> and touch the
> solder to the other side. You will see the joint
> melt first, and
> then the solder melt. Pull the solder and iron away
> and don't let
> the joint move until the solder in the joint is
> frozen, otherwise
> you will get a cold joint. If the joint does move
> and the solder
> doesn't look right (sort of granular), heat it up
> again and remelt
> the solder. The joint should look metallic and
> Now a little electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
> and you're in
> This is one way to do it and I know there are
> others. It has always
> worked for me and it was the way my dad taught me
> when these things
> were "newtrucks".
> Bruce Kettunen
> 57 3200
> Mt. Iron, MN
> At Tuesday, 27 March 2001, you wrote:
> >Along the same subject line...can anyone tell me
> how to solder 8
> or 10 guage
> >alternator wire. I am trying to install a new
> battery wire plug to my
> >alternator (10ga or maybe 8?). I've heard not to
> crimp, but always
> >wires to avoid voltage drops from resistance.
> > I have a 100w soldering iron. Which type of
> solder should I
> be using? I
> >just can't seem to get the wire hot enough to
> absorb the solder.
> What is the
> >best method for joining the two wires prior to
> soldering them? Big
> wire must
> >take a certain touch, because I've never had any
> trouble with smaller
> >guages. Special cleaning needed? I've tried flux
> and lead-free solder
> >well as the leaded variety.
> > Thanks in ADvance!!
> > Tim in Ft Worth
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: THE BROWNS [SMTP:email@example.com]
> >> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 5:21 PM
> >> To: Willard, Andrew; firstname.lastname@example.org
> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] electrical harness
> >> I have a kit that will be going in soon. It is a
> Kwik Wire. It has
> >> colored
> >> and labeled wires, 3 pigtail connectors on the
> harness, an on
> /off toggle
> >> switch on the block, and GXL grade wire(was told
> this is step
> above modern
> >> >
> >> > The wiring on my 50 3100 is mostly original and
> a mess. Blinkers,
> >> > gas gauge, gauge lights etc don't work.
> Therefore I think I'm
> best off
> >> > to replace the whole harness. However I'd also
> need to include
> the CB
> >> > and stereo etc. I wouldn't mind having a fuse
> box to run some
> of these
> >> > items through.
> >> > My understanding is that some of the harnesses
> are better quality
> >> > others.
> >> >
> >> > Does anyone have a name brand harness that they
> would recommend,
> >> > where did you get it from? Does it come with
> good instructions?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks, Sam 1950 3100
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> between 1941 and 1959
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