Uhh, I have yet to find a radiator cool enough to
touch at operating temperature. Usually around
140 to 150 degrees, in my book thats pretty hot
to the touch.
Jeff
>From: vwbus@ckoon.org (craig k)
>Reply-To: vwbus@ckoon.org (craig k)
>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>Subject: [oletrucks] LOONG day
>Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 01:36:13 -0500
>
>Thanks to the Listees who insisted it was no big deal to open the pumpkin,
>I replaced the leaky rear axle seals today!
>No real problems to report, amazingly enough - it had been done before by a
>PO, so at least SOME maintenence had been done in the last 51 years!
>Differential cover had major internal dents in it - the ring gear had
>apparently come loose at some point and slammed into it, nearly grinding
>thru the cover. What could cause that? It seems to have been some time ago,
>and a different gear, as I could see no damage to the current gear or
>bolts, and the ring is pretty worn, so appears fairly old. Maybe the cover
>was off another truck...
>
>The ring gear had razor edges, a good amount of pitting, and the pinion
>has about 2/3rds too much play but my neighbor the Porsche mechanic said
>"the way you drive it'll last another 50 years!" I figure that this makes
>a good excuse to start saving for a Patrick's setup. Rear wheel bearings
>are not good, but not bad. At $40 apiece, they are great for now!
>Should have measured the spacer block to see if a larger one was needed due
>to wear, but a) so much other stuff was worn it seemed silly and b) who the
>hell has spacer blocks in stock? The nearest old-time tranny shop who
>might've had one got run outta town so us taxpayers can build a hotel for
>someone else to make money off - they torn down his shop to make a parking
>garage for it :P
>
>Next we turned to the brakes: cleaned and adjusted; someone had replaced
>the Huck with Bendix, and the passenger side floats too much and rubs the
>drum. Gonna have to drill the plate and put in a brake pin I guess. Drums
>are RIGHT at max wear; does ANYONE make a replacement? Without all that
>goop flying past the rear seals, I should have excellent brakes now.
>
>Lastly, we went after the balky motor; for starters, it looks like the
>motor is not well-grounded - we get an orange spark when touching a plug to
>the head nuts, and a pretty white one when I am the ground!! Also found the
>motor was overheating... got too hot to touch the radiator while IDLING!
>Tossed the thermostat, flushed the radiator, got a new hose, new
>thermostat, etc. Water pump seems to be ok... the radiator has a ton of
>pinholes up top, could that be a problem? I would assume that just means I
>don't get the added pressure to help the boiling point.
>Gonna check the timing tomorrow. Gosh, if all goes well, it looks like the
>Easter Bunny might just get a ride this year!
>
>Oh, one more thing - are there any BRASS parts in the differential housing?
>I put in some 80-145 hypoid, and realized AFTERWARDS the jug said GL5. If
>you didn't know already, DO NOT EXPOSE BRASS GEARS TO GL5!!!! It will turn
>the working surface of the brass to swiss cheese in a matter of months!
>Most of the stuff looked steel, but I'm gonna drain it if there is any
>yellow metal back there..........
>
>craig
>caretaker of
>stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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