I spent most of the day today digging around in a shed FULL of carbs at a
local shop - mainly newer 4 barrel stuff, all of it piled on top of the
older items I wanted.
At long last I found a Rochester of some kind (looks like a B, but has a
BIG throat) that had a 50 jet stuck in it.... whooopeeee! I also pulled a
few larger jets, and asked the guy if he would solder me up a 48; he said
"I don't know where my drills are... we don't deal much with carbs
anymore!" He will look and get back to me, but in the meantime 50 is better
than 56.
While digging, I came across several Carter W1 and WA1s - I picked up a
complete - but frozen - W1 for $20; should I get a WA1 instead? Also,
trivia stuff: which are older, the Carters with the model number cast in,
or stamped? There were probably a dozen Carter Ws of all stripes, if anyone
wants one I can go back.
Car is running better, but still idles like crap; I suspect a run on the
highway or some Mystery Oil through the carb might clean up some sticky
valves.
Got the brakes sorta straightened out... they are still a bit grabby, but
they used to throw the car into a spin at 20MPH if you hit em hard. Like
the time the riceburner cut in front of me and slammed on his brakes :P
Anyone have a good rule of thumb for adjustment? I have been moving the
shoe until the wheel will not move, and then back off 5 clicks.
Also, I still have Hucks, but there are no places to put the shoe retainer
pins on my backing plate; should I just drill some holes and get generic
pins from the parts store? Both rear shoes kinda bow out towards the drum,
and rub a little.
Next is to get it inspected and tagged!
craig
caretaker of
stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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