Dynamite, Jim. Gets that lug nut out of the socket every time. :D
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
tcape@weblnk.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim House" <jhouse@ccsolution.com>
To: <RobertHeil@hellausa.com>; "'Oletrucks (E-mail)'"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Lug Nut Removal
> Well the deed is done. You should see the swelling on my left hand - how
> did you know. I nailed it really well with the 5 lb sledge right into the
> rim. Since I can still move the finger to type I guess it is not busted.
> In all I used 2 pipe wrenches, a 12" crescent wrench, the vice grips and
> half a bottle of the Coleman fuel from the stove. After, working with all
> of these tools I had a nice round circle on the stud. Since I am in the
> eastern time zone I skipped the Jack. Then I broke down and got the 1/2"
> socket and the metric set. Then I pounded one onto the stub and it spun
> right off. I just have one follow-up question - How can I get the nut out
> of the 18MM socket?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim House
> 46 Chevy 3104
> Hollis, NH
>
> Did you see that an American in the top 10 at the Marathon!!!! Wow things
> are changing.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RobertHeil@hellausa.com [mailto:RobertHeil@hellausa.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 2:29 PM
> To: Jim House; Oletrucks (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Lug Nut Removal
>
>
>
> Alright Jim!
>
> Rounded those babies over real good, huh?
> Finally a question I can answer from personal experience!!
>
> Step #1: You have to find that set of 1/2" drive, deep set, METRIC
sockets
> you bought at the Bargain Barn years ago (just cause you couldn't pass up
a
> really good deal). We all have them, but never use them except in this
> case.
>
> Step #2: You have to soak the offending lug in PB Blaster or Gibbs or
> preferably 1/4 oz. of Jack Daniels. (Don't be too hasty to put the bottle
> away.)
>
> Step #3: Let the lug juice soak in for about 20 minutes. In the mean
time
> begin sipping heavily on the the Jack. (You'll understand why later).
> Also find a heavy leather glove for your left hand. If you are right
> handed, it must fit your LEFT hand!!
>
> Step #4: Choose one of those cheap Chinese unused metric sockets,
slightly
> smaller in diameter than the offending lug. Find a 5 lb. mal hammer, and
> attempt to tap the under-sized socket onto the lug nut. Of course it
won't
> fit, and will need some coaxing. Hit it a little harder....a little
> harder....harder still. Don't worry about breaking that #19 socket cause
> you'll never use it again, probably for the rest of your natural life.
Now
> hit it one more time REAL HARD!
> Did you remember to put the glove on your your left hand yet?? (Sorry
> 'bout that, but the Jack should help reduce the sting and the swelling.)
>
> Steps #5 & 6: I call this part, "Bring on the Heat". After you have
> successfully engaged the socket onto the lug nut in question, and properly
> bandaged your left hand, find the Benzine bottle-torch you haven't used
in
> 3 years. Of course the bottle is empty, so we will wait till you run to
> FLAPS to buy full bottle. In the event that more than 1/3 of the Jack has
> been consumed, please send the wife, and/or significant other (and this is
> important: With the empty bottle as a guide). After 2 hours has elapsed,
> and you have consumed the balance of the Jack, ("I figured as long as I
> was in town I'd stop at Krogers, and Penny's, and the drug store, blah,
> blah, blah.") you are ready to fire up the torch and bring on the heat.
Of
> course the "spark-o-starter" has long since disappeared, so use your
trusty
> Bic lighter. Once you have successfully ignited the torch, start laying
on
> the heat to the socket/lug combo. Once you have achieved a nice cherry
red
> glow to this assembly, (remember this could take a while as you have a
17lb
> heat-sink called a brake drum attached to it) attach the 1/2" drive
breaker
> bar (or as was my case, go get the bar and repeat "bring on the heat") and
> start "reefin' " down (as in counter clock-wise) on that bar.
> THE LUG SHOULD MOVE.
>
> Average elapsed time (You won't find this in the Hollander Labor manual):
3
> hours, 27 minutes. This does not include clean up time or the follow up
> visit to the emergency care clinic to have you left hand examined.
>
> Rememeber, we care, and we only want to help!
>
> Bob Heil
>
> '51 3600 in pieces
>
>
>
>
> "Jim House"
> <jhouse@ccsolution.c To: "Oletrucks
> \(E-mail\)"
> om> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent by: cc:
> owner-oletrucks@auto Subject: [oletrucks]
Lug
> Nut Removal
> x.team.net
>
>
> 04/16/01 11:29 AM
> Please respond to
> "Jim House"
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Well it was bound to happen. Most of my lug nuts are well rounded. When
I
> try to remove the bad ones to replace them with junk yard replacements I
> can
> not get one lug off. I can get a grip on it with my vice-grips but I can
> not get it to break free. In the past I have had all of the lugs off.
Any
> ideas on how to get the one free....
>
> Thanks,
> Jim House
> 46 Chevy 3104
> Hollis, NH - wow it warm (55 degrees) and I can see 90% of my yard - the
> snow is almost gone;>
>
> Happy Patriots Day all!
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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