Bob,
I'll go by tomorrow and take a look at the installation and measure the
distance from the latch to the edge of the door and also how far the pin
sticks out of jam.
I will take a regular picture of the install and send them to you when there
developed.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Chansler <rchansle@us.ibm.com>
To: joe <chevy1@jps.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 06, 2001 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More on doors
>
>Joe,
>Do you have any pictures of what the door looks like with the bear claw
>latches? When I look at the latch and the current 1949 door, it looks like
>the latch should go almost completely on the outside of the door. Either
>that or the "pin" would need to stick out several inces from the frame. I
>cant picture how these would work on these old doors.
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Chansler
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "joe"
> <chevy1@jps.net> To: "Old Chevy Pickup"
> Sent by:
<oldchevypickup@hotmail.com>, "oletrucks"
> owner-oletrucks@auto <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> x.team.net cc:
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks]
More on doors
>
> 11/06/2001 01:12 PM
> Please respond to
> "joe"
>
>
>
>
>
>I installed the larger Bear Claw Latches with the metal hardware your
>describing on my Nephews 48 GMC a few months ago.
>
>Tips"
>
>1. Adjust the door to line up the body lines with the cab before you begin
>to install the new Bear Claw latches. This way your able to adjust the
>door
>later and still be within the movement area of the striker bolt. If your
>hinge pins are worn, replace them first!
>
>2. Remember where your gas tank is located.....right behind the seat if
>stock so be careful with the welder and sparks. I drained the tank and
>removed the seat and carpet.
>
>3. Tack the parts on first and try opening and closing the door a few times
>before final welding.
>
>I installed the latch in almost the same location as the original "maybe a
>tad higher" due to clearance problems with the glass vertical guide
>channel.
>Although his was a 48 with the metal frame around the glass and yours only
>has the glass "No Frame", the distance is still the same between the back
>of
>the vertical guide and the latch mechanism. See, your going to run into
>clearance problems with the back of the latch mechanism and the glass
>vertical guide channel in the door. What I did was make sure to reinstall
>the vertical guide channel and even have the glass rolled halfway down to
>make sure the channel bolted back on to the door and didn't touch the latch
>mechanism. Then with the latch mechanism bolted to the metal frame you
>purchased, slide it into the door and tack it to the door jam. I took a
>piece of a cardboard and taped it to the back of the latch so I'd be sure
>to
>have some additional clearance. You don't want to have the latch mechanism
>sticking to far out of the door because then your going to run into
>clearance problems with the jamb.
>
>I just took a marker and with the door closed marked roughly where the
>latch
>center was to located the striker. You'll have to do a little more
>fabrication on the jam side to attach the striker hardware then you think
>but it's not that hard.
>
>The Bear Claw Latches close really nice! You'll have to get use to closing
>the doors and constantly reminding the passengers how easy they close.
>
>Joe
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Old Chevy Pickup <oldchevypickup@hotmail.com>
>To: chevy1@jps.net <chevy1@jps.net>
>Date: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 10:47 AM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More on doors
>
>
>>Joe,
>>
>>Have you installed Bear Claw latches in any of the trucks you have worked
>>on? Not sure if your '50 has them. I was wondering what approach I
>should
>>take on my 55 first series. I bought the installation pieces that the
>latch
>>attaches to so I just have to cut out a rectangle but what I was wondering
>>if you had any tips or suggestions on getting the door and the cab parts
>to
>>line up the first time.
>>
>>Thanks!!!
>>
>>Dan Jacobsen - PA
>>
>>'49 3100 327/powerglide
>>'55.1 3100 rodstoration 350/350 MII
>>'48 4400 Front sheet metal on a '87 chassis (still need a cab)
>>'35 Dodge Business Coupe - All original
>>'35 Dodge Business Coupe - Complete parts car - Future streetrod project
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>>>Reply-To: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>>>To: "Ric McAnulty" <ric_mcanulty@yahoo.com>, <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More on doors
>>>Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:00:16 -0800
>>>
>>>Their are two ways to go about getting the door back in the same
>location.
>>>
>>>a) Drill a hole in the door and through the hinge "behind the door
>panel.
>>>This will serve as a alignment pin to line the door back up to the same
>>>position. Remember to do both top and bottom hinge.
>>>
>>>b) Take a pencil or marker and trace around the bolt holes and draw a
>>>vertical line on the outer edge of the hinge where it goes into the door
>>>pocket for a reference point.
>>>
>>>If your taking only the door off and leaving the hinge on "my preference"
>>>the only adjustment that you'll be dealing with is the position of the
>door
>>>in the opening "forward or backward adjustment" and not the up and down
>>>movement.
>>>
>>>The AD's are also very easy to set the door back in position at the point
>>>because all you really have to do is slide the door back on the hinges,
>>>install the bolts "loosely"and slowly close the door so it closes on the
>>>striker. It should actually line itself back up and then all you have to
>>>do
>>>is tighten the bolts down and your done.
>>>
>>>Joe
>>>The Resto Rod Shop
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Ric McAnulty <ric_mcanulty@yahoo.com>
>>>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>>Date: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 7:22 AM
>>>Subject: [oletrucks] More on doors
>>>
>>>
>>> >How difficult is it to remove the doors form my '50 at
>>> >the cab mounting and then get back on and aligned
>>> >properly? Do they only go back into one spot or is
>>> >there some adjustment? Thought it would be easier to
>>> >replace the door gasket if it were off the truck lying
>>> >on saw horses so that I could wire brush the door jam
>>> >to replace the gasket. Would also rebuild the hinge
>>> >pins at the same time.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks
>>> >Ric McAnulty
>>> >'50 3100 5-window custom cab
>>> >w / '57 235-6 4 speed
>>> >Find a job, post your resume.
>>> >http://careers.yahoo.com
>>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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