I would agree with Jack on the solid lifters. I looked into hydraulic
route and decided it was not worth it.
Ralph Linnell
Membership Chairman, Inliners International
Chevysix@attbi.com
Inliners WebSite
http://www.inliners.org
Ralph's Web Site
http://home.attbi.com/~chevysix/
Chevysix@attbi.com
All email, both in comming and outgoing should be virus free being
scanned by Norton Anti-Virus.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Halton
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 5:51 PM
To: Deve Krehbiel
Cc: oletrucks
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] 261 Questions
Here's a link to an article on building a 261
http://www.inliners.org./tech/261_build.htm This was published in our
club
newsletter a while back.
1) I don't know. Even the different 261 model years had running changes
to
the rocker arm oiling feed. I would leave well enough alone.
2) see picture on Inliners link.
3) Find a freeze plug to fit the block where the draft tube goes. Drill
a
hole to fit a PCV valve from a 250 Chevy.
4) Yes
5) Good luck finding new 261 rods, or even new rod bolts for that
matter.
Have your old rods sized and reconditioned. Check
Stovebolt.com
archives for the 411 on hydraulic lifters. I would use solid lifters (as
original) rather than modifying hydraulics.
Jack
www.inliners.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@cox.net>
To: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 12:49 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] 261 Questions
> Ok all you genius's out there! Now is your chance to show the world
how
> smart you are on the 261 engine. I know you can do it! ;)
>
> 1) On the 235, inside the SIDE cover, there is a stretch of tubing
that
goes
> behind the push rods from one point to the other. On my 261, those
fittings
> are capped and there is no tubing. This bothers me. What is that tube
for
> and should I make one and install it?
>
> 2) Can someone take a very nice picture of the manifold side of the
261
(or
> explain in detail) how the oil lines go. There are two 1/2" or so
holes in
> the block and then beside one of them is a smaller opening with a
fitting
> cap over it. I am going to put a spin on filter rig on it and need to
know
> how to set it up. Its different than the 235 and you will ruin the
engine
if
> you set it up that way.
>
> 3) My road tube is bent to hell and I need a new one. Does anyone have
one
> they can part with that is in really good condition? Is there a PVC
solution
> that a person could use and replace the road tube with something more
> efficient? I am an original freak normally, but since the part is bad
> thought I would ask.
>
> 4) I am using the 235 head and the machine shop drilled the steam
holes in
> it so all should be fine. Do you normally use the copper gasket sealer
on
> the head gasket?
>
> 5) I asked the machinist what I could do to improve the performance of
the
> engine. He wasnt thrilled about performance cams but said the best
thing I
> could do was to go with hydraulic lifters and new rods. I took his
advice
> because I have seen the difference that makes. Not performance boost
as
much
> as makes the engine quieter. Does anyone have experience with
hydraulic
> lifters? If so, do you have to inject oil in them when they are new to
get
> them started, or how does the hydraulic aspect work?
>
> That should do it for now. Thanks alot in advance!
>
> Deve
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|