Rob, you really need to buy a shop manual! All this stuff is in it, IF you
look and read it. An Assembly Manual is nice for drawings of how it goes
together too.
First, the wire in column goes up to the top bearing in mast. If you look
at it, you'll notice it's brassy color and smooth around col diameter. The
wheel has a soldered wire with a spring on it, and a graphite or ? item on
lower end that rides around on that brassy color strip when you turn wheel.
It slips in a hole in steering wheel and touches the flat metal plate under
horn button. There is a spring in there too, to hold the button up. When you
press button, it shorts on steering shaft or column or somewhere and a
circuit is made thru the slider on wire to mast bearing, to wire, out to
relay. Many times the wires get cut where they go out the side of column
under dash to wireing or some go out steering box shaft at bottom of column.
You can buy new ones of these from vendors. Venders are listed at
www.stovebolt.com site and there is a Forum there also. Get some manuals!
About $25 most places. Fun to read also.
G. L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750
AD trucks and MM tractors
----- Original Message -----
From: "Parkinson, Rob" <Rob_Parkinson@jdedwards.com>
To: "Bruce Kettunen" <bekett@uslink.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 10:27 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Ammeter question - now a horn question.
> Thanks to all who responded to my ammeter question - I got some great
answers and hope to hook everything up this weekend.
> I do have one other question. The horn. There's a wire which exits the
steering column and goes to the horn relay. What happens to it after it
enters the steering column?
> I have removed the steering wheel and see no evidence of it. It seems
there would be no way for it to get by the steering wheel bearing anyway -
pretty tight fit. I was thinking it maybe came right up through the center
shaft, but there's no hole. The horn button shows evidence of a solder where
I would think the wire would have to come, but.........
> Hornless in Denver - any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Kettunen [mailto:bekett@uslink.net]
> Sent: Tue 7/1/2003 8:07 AM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Ammeter question
>
>
>
> Battery+--->Ammeter----->Headlight bulb------->Battery-
>
> A center zero ammeter like our trucks have will work either way.
> With the headlight on it should twitch to one side or the other.
> Hook up the leads on the ammeter so that it shows discharge when
> the headlight is on. This is the polarity you need.
>
> As to the positive ground, others are more expert on this but I believe
> some AD and early TF GMC's had positive ground.
>
> Bruce K
> 57 3200
> Mt. Iron, MN
>
> At Monday, 30 June 2003, you wrote:
>
> >Hi - What is the easiest way to determine which is the positive
> terminal
> >for the ammeter?
> >It is currently not hooked up at all, and there are no markings.
> >The vehicle is a 12 volt converted '51 Chevy 3100.
> >Also, were these trucks always negative ground?
> >Thanks in advance, Rob
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
>
>
>
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> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|