Charley,
You might want to take your original wheels to a custom wheel shop and have
them cut out the centers on a precision lathe and weld the centers to a 6 or
7 inch tubeless rim. This would allow you to keep the original look and
back spacing. I had mine done in Colorado for $45 each or so and then had
them powder coated. Now the wheels are the only things on my truck that
aren't rusty! ;-) Also you should put radials on instead of bias ply cuz
the radials won't track the ruts in the road. Bias ply tires = two fisted
white knuckle terror driving. Radial tires = one hand enjoyable driving.
Is Texas your last name or is that where you want to escape from?
Durwood
51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
>From: "C & B Hosang" <hosang@281.com>
>Reply-To: "C & B Hosang" <hosang@281.com>
>To: "OLETRUCKS" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [oletrucks] Wheel Problem
>Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 15:11:25 -0500
>
>I am relatively new to this site, and I have a problem with the wheels
>interfering with the tie rod ends on my '51 Chevy 3/4 ton. The problem and
>history are detailed on page 26 of the Oct 2003 issue of Vintage Truck
>magazine.
>
>What it doesn't say is that the advice to scrap out the split rims came
>from
>the only tire shop in the area that will work with them. Based on that, I
>would like to stay away from split rims, and stick with the Ford wheels if
>at
>all possible. Wayne gave me some general advice, but I would like to
>communicate directly with someone who had the problem, and solved it. Also,
>how much clearance between the tie rod end and the wheel is enough?
>
>Secondly, I hope to start assembly of the box shortly. Is there a
>preferred
>sequence of assembly? Is it better to do on the truck or separately?
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Charley Hosang Texas
>'51 Chev 3/4 ton
>'29 Ford Tudor
> Both in process.
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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