A couple of years ago I saw a GMC 370 LCF with a 5.9 L. Cummins diesel
installed. He used an electric cooling fan, or maybe two. He said they
worked great.
Abt the only thing bad I've heard abt electric fans, is that if you go thru
a lot of mud, the fan(s) can get clogged up, and stop working or burn out.
So I guess you shouldn't take the vehicle you've just spent XXXX hours
restoring, at a cost of $XXXX ,out in the mud very often!! Bob K
----- Original Message -----
From: "wayne osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
To: <bigfred@unm.edu>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] T-stat, cooling system general info...
> If the temp drops down to a respectable level when driving, appears
there's
> nothing actually wrong with your system. Since it goes up while setting
> still it would appear that there is not enough air flow through the
> radiator to cool the liquid. Remember to keep the 50/50 antifreeze mix and
> it won't cool as good with more antifreeze in there. The problem may lie
> with the fan, its distance inside the shroud. An electric pusher fan would
> definitely help you out as long as it was running while sitting still, but
> i'd look at the fan clearances first.
> I know many folks who have ditched the mechanical and gone full electric.
> Not a bad idea and i've been toying with it myself. Good luck and let
us
> know how you come out. --wayne
>
> At 09:45 AM 10/7/03 -0600, bigfred@unm.edu wrote:
> >Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.
> >To answer your question Wayne, the motor definitely cools off when I'm
> >cruising. The stock gauge is in the front of the motor, while the
> >autometer is in the back. When the stock gauge is reading about 200,
> >the autometer (back gauge) reads around 210 (or slightly above). It
> >sounds like everyone agrees the T-stat is fully open at 180.
> >
> >BTW, I have a brand new, 4 core "high efficiency" radiator.
> >
> >Any more thoughts on ditching the engine drive fan configuration?
> >
> >Once again thanks to everyone for any input!!!
> >-alfie
> >
> >Quoting wayne osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>:
> >
> > > My understanding is that at 180 degrees the t-stat will pop open. You
> > > can
> > > take one an put in a pot of boiling water and watch its operations,
> > > be sure
> > > to put a thermometer in there for temp references. Someone already
> > > touched
> > > on the fan--as it should be anywhere from 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the
> > > fan
> > > shroud-or very close to that, but not all the way inside as you'll
> > > get air
> > > turbulence inside the shroud cavity and it won't suck air through.
> > > You'd be
> > > better with it sittin more outside than inside-meaning it can be 1/3
> > > in and
> > > 2/3 out and still be ok. The diameter of the fan should come close to
> > > the
> > > diameter of the shroud opening for optimum air movement, I have about
> > > 1/2
> > > inch clearance between the outside edge of the blade and the shroud.
> > > Curious how the system reacts when on the road or are you seeing
> > > this in
> > > a non driving situation. I agree with Bob in his comment if it gets
> > > above
> > > 212 or so, there's a problem with your system. If your system reacts
> > > the
> > > same when driving, a pusher fan will not help you any. At highway
> > > speeds
> > > the fans are basically not doing anything as the wind should carry
> > > enough
> > > air to cool.
> > > Have you pulled the radiator cap and made sure that water movement is
> > >
> > > occurring? You should see good flow and should be able to visibly see
> > > the
> > > movement.
> > > You mentioned 2 temp gauges, is the one in back getting up to 212
> > > or so,
> > > what is the front one reading? Sounds like something is not quiet
> > > right...
> > > Remember that these trucks originally came without a shroud...
> > > --wayne
> > >
> > >
> > > At 02:26 PM 10/6/03 -0600, bigfred@unm.edu wrote:
> > > >Hi all,
> > > >I'm trying to get some basic info regarding how my cooling system
> > > >works, or should work.
> > > >I have a totally new system, including motor, heater core, water
> > > pump,
> > > >hoses and radiator.
> > > >1- How does a T-stat work? I have a 180 degree T-stat. Does it
> > > *start*
> > > >to open at 180, or is it fully open at 180?
> > > >2- I have a factory temp gauge in the front of the motor and an
> > > >aftermarket temp gauge in the back of the motor. My back one always
> > > >reads a few degrees hotter then my front one, which I would expect.
> > > >However, I start to get worried when I see it creep up around or
> > > above
> > > >210. Given that the system is pressurized and the boiling point of
> > > H20
> > > >is 212 at sea level, it seems like the system should be able to
> > > operate
> > > >at well above 212. Is this correct?
> > > >3- What is the ideal fan set up? I have a non-flex fan w/o a
> > > clutch.
> > > >It is set all the way inside my shroud. I have heard that it
> > > should
> > > >sit 1/3 out and 2/3 inside the shroud. Is this correct? if so, why?
> > > >Should I run a clutch? Should I just ditch the engine driven fan and
> > > go
> > > >with an electric fan?
> > > >4- What is the opinion on auxilliary pusher fans? Are they just a
> > > >solution to a problem that is not being addressed?
> > > >
> > > >I know I've asked a lot of questions, but I can't seem to find a
> > > >general concesensus on these.
> > > >-Thanks
> > > >-alfie
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> > > 1959
> > >
> > > Wayne Osborne
> > > http://www.chevytrucks.org
> > > http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> > >
> > >
>
> Wayne Osborne
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|