Bob,
Thanks! Good ideas on using the die grinder. I typically grind down the high
spots then switch to a flex back disk - and use paper to finish.
I guess I got lucky and didn't gouge anything.....this time :-)
As for the pits - the cab was blasted and it is bare metal - I don't see how
POR-15 would help when compared to filler. There's no rust to stop. It's
solid and the pits are not very deep - just looks like old acne. Do you
recommend POR-15 because of the hardness and the ease of smoothing? Or was
there another thought that was driving the recommendation?
- Ryan
On 10/9/03 9:19 AM, "Bob Chansler" <rchansl@attglobal.net> wrote:
> Ryan,
> A couple thoughts:
> On the floor for those rust pits, you might try using Por15. It is
> extremely tough and works well on areas like a floor. It flows out real
> smooth. You have to buff it or prime it to put regular paint over it.
> For sanding welds, I use a 3 inch Roloc disc on a die grinder. It is much
> easier to work than that 4 inch grinder. It provides a much smoother surface
> and works well to shape the weld area. You can get almost any grit of paper
> on those discs. I usually use an 80 grit on the rough welds and switch to
> 120 for smoothing things out. A big grinder tends to get heavy and
> invariably you end up gouging the area.
> Bob Chansler
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net>
> To: "Kirk Pierce" <kpier883@bellsouth.net>; "oletrucks"
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 8:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Cab corners and cab cracks
>
>
>> Kirk,
>>
>> I'll give you my plan - but be warned, I'm a novice. Some may have a
> better
>> way of doing this....and if you do - speak up!
>>
>> Since it's not completely worn through - I'm going to use Evercoat's Rage
>> Extreme body filler. We were toying with this new stuff on a friends
> bronco
>> - and we were all very pleased with how smooth it laid out.
>>
>> Lay it on, sand, lay more if needed, sand, sand, sand. Then go about your
>> normal routine for primer and paint....
>>
>> When grinding on your cracks - have patience and don't press too hard. It
>> took a bit to get that contour back to the correct shape. But it made it.
>>
>> - Ryan
>>
>> On 10/8/03 7:31 PM, "Kirk Pierce" <kpier883@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Ryan,
>>>
>>> Your truck is coming together nicely. I was very interested in the
> crack
>>> repair as my cab has almost identical problems. You stated:
>>> Over here we have the driver side floorboard. Looks good too. You can
> see
>>> some pitting, but no holes. Easy fix.
>>>
>>> I am curious just how you will go about fixing the pitting as I also
> have
>>> that problem on the passenger side.
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net>
>>> To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 11:36 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Cab corners and cab cracks
>>>
>>>
>>>> Well - I finally got around to doing the cracks on the cab. They came
> out
>>>> great. Thanks to all for the advice. New pics of the process below.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.wsu.edu/~rsain/apache.html
>>>>
>>>> - Ryan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 9/5/03 9:33 AM, "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net> wrote:
>>>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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