Most leads on modern equipment i.e. stereos have a fuse installed on the
power line so they will be fused. Its a simple task to put an inline fuse
in all powered accessories. If not mistaken I believe all the power runs
through the headlight switch so if any short occurs, it'll blow the fuse in
the headlight switch.
Kinda crude but it does serve the purpose, of course the ideal situation
would be to have a nice fuse panel to protect individual circuits such as
power windows and what not.
Been in sunny california for about a week now and still a week to go, the
shop with my replacement rear end will be completed by the time I get back
so maybe I can get my truck back on the road after the pinion bearing came
all apart a few weeks ago. The guys here would love to have some of that
snow fall to take care of all the fires that has been running rampant
lately.. Feel so sad for these folks as the local news carries much more
than the national services, what makes it worse is that one of the largest
fires, they think, was started by arsenist. --wayne
At 12:14 AM 10/29/03 EST, Markegates@aol.com wrote:
>Thanks for you replies on the 57 wiring issue
>To answer Steve - This wiring kit I'm using on my 57 3100 is a original kit,
>which would seem to work fine. Steve, you are correct - I'm running a 1972
>350 with an alternator. I am just curious to get feedback on whether this
>system (where the headlight switch has one tiny fuse) will protect the
truck when I
>add things like a nice stereo hidden behing the glovebox etc.
>According to "Dave 57 3100" who replied, one small short in his taillight
>buld shorted his whole system. My Dad the engineer thinks I'm nuts if I
>in a fuse box. However, the local 47-59 Chevy truck shop thinks I'm OK as
>long as I keep my wires under the hood far away from the headers.
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959