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Re: [Oletrucks] Frame Boxing

To: <gale_gorman@mac.com>, <my49chevytruck@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Frame Boxing
From: K Ohlgren <kjohlgren@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 20:18:28 -0400
i boxed my 58 frame same as gale. i used 10 ga as it was the same thickness as
the frame. the 55-59 frame is pretty straight, i had the metal sheared to the
size inside the frame rails. i only had to trim the pieces that were narrower
than the main frame. i did sandblast my frame before boxing, but i did not
treat the inside of the frame before boxing. i figured that any paint in there
would have burnt off for an inch on either side of both welds.



i used a fatman mustII frontend, cut all the rivets & brackets off that i did
not use and had to weld close about 100 holes in my frame. to weld up the
holes, clamp a piece of brass on the inside of the frame, weld over the hole
from the outside, grind smooth. i left a couple of holes open on the bottom of
the frame in case any water need to drain out. i used por15 to paint the
frame, did not top coat it. por15 has no uv resistance and will fade if
exposed to sun light.



you will need to leave slots to get the nuts on your bed bolts or use realy
long bolts that go all the way through the frame or weld on angle clips to
attach the bed (i did this). all brackets the bolt to the frame will need long
thru the frame bolts, like side bumper braces.



if the 49 master cylinder is mounted to the frame like the 58 you will need to
leave room to service the mc. i used a different mc that bolted to my boxing
plate but still used the stock swing arm and pedal.

good luck!

Kurt
58 3100 Apache project
the "Duracell Project" it keeps going... and going...
When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not screaming and freaking out
like everyone else in the car.


> From: gale_gorman@mac.com
> Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 13:27:00 -0500
> To: my49chevytruck@hotmail.com
> CC: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Frame Boxing
>
> I boxed the frame on a '55-1 years ago and I just cut 10ga or 11ga steel to
fit and welded it. I cut the steel to fit inside the frame but fit up the
joint so the inside face of the new plate was flush with the frame flanges.
Makes for a good fillet weld and easy to make slick.
>
> When or if you do this, anchor the frame to the floor and make absolutely
certain the two ends are level or parallel. The new frame will be pretty stiff
and if it was welded up with one corner high or low you're stuck with that.
>
> --
> Gale Gorman
> Houston
>
> On Apr 9, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Carson Holloway wrote:
>
> I know that a lot of people have boxed in their frame on AD truck and other
> types of vehicles. My question is there a website, a book, etc. that
explains
> the proper steps in doing so as I really cant find a good source. They say
> to cut the medal out to fit and weld it to the frame is basically all I
cant
> find and more Im finding people that are doing the whole debate on boxing
or
> not boxing and that type of stuff. I guess the main thing Im trying to
find,
> which makes sense to me, is if you are putting POR 15, an Epoxy paint,
powder
> coating, etc. on the frame and you want to protect the inside of the frame
as
> well, that you will need to do this before you actually boxing the frame
in.
> This makes sense as theres no way once its welded to spray and/or brush
the
> protector on the frame. But you dont need to do the whole frame yet as if
> you need to do more welding then you will have to grind the place off your
> welding and reapply what you took off you didnt need to. I hope that maybe
> some of you that have already been through this process and found a good
> source to go by will be able to help me out.
>
> Thanks
>
> Carson Holloway
> Meridian, MS
> 1949 Chevy 3100
> my49chevytruck@hotmail.com
>
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