Another factor that causes you to use a longer pushrod is resurfacing
the flywheel as the pressure plate is now closer to the engine after
this has been done a few times the pushrod will need to be lengthened.
Do not lenghthen a pushrod to compensate for a wornout release bearing
though.
>From: "Larry and Sandi Miller" <millerls@msn.com>
>
>I think Frank may have something here. When I first swapped my 948 for
a
>1275 I retained the smooth case tranny and had to make a longer rod to
get
>the clutch to disengage. When I went back to the 948 the only thing
that
>changed was the brand of clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing.
The
>original rod would no longer work. Had to use the longer rod with that
>combination also. The 948, the smooth case, the MC, and the slave
cylinder
>were born together at the factory. Of course, the MC and slave cylinder
had
>been rebuilt a few times, but the clutch/pressure plate/release bearing
were
>the only real variables.
>
>LM
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
>To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
>Cc: Paul Bacon <usbacons@ihug.co.nz>; spridget list
><spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
>Date: Saturday, July 04, 1998 9:00 AM
>Subject: Re: spridget clutches
>
>
>>Steve Byers wrote:
>>>
>>> I believe the design of the clutch is self-adjusting to some extent
>because
>>> it is intended that wear in the clutch disc friction material and
wear in
>>> the carbon bearing should cancel each other out. The bit about
>lengthening
>>> the push rod is interesting. I replaced the clutch in my '73
Midget,
>>> rebuilt the clutch hydraulics, and included a new pushrod from Moss
due
>to
>>> wear in the clevis pin hole. After getting it all together with the
new
>>> (correct, according to Moss) push rod, the clutch would not
disengage. I
>>> pulled out the new rod and compared it with the old one, and that's
when
>I
>>> noticed the old one seemed to have an extension welded to it, rather
>>> crudely. Put the old one back in, and the clutch worked normally.
>>>
>>> We have had this discussion about the pushrod modification on the
list
>>> before, and others have said they had a modified rod also, but no
one has
>>> come up with a good explanation for it. If it compensates for wear,
I
>>> don't understand why a new pushrod won't work with an all new clutch
and
>>> release bearing. There was a suggestion that the clutch fork might
be
>>> bent, but no explanation of how it gets bent. Since the rod
extension
>>> seems to be more than a rare occurrence, I don't think I believe the
bent
>>> fork theory.
>>
>>Steve and others,
>>
>>I have no proof positive on my theory but the various clutch pushrod
>>lengths seem to be directly related to who's brand of clutch you use.
>>I have had to use 2 different rods on the same car/engine/trans but
the
>>only difference was Borg & Beck clutch vs Sachs clutch. I think the
>>pressure plates are slightly different thus the need for different
rods.
>>
>>There is a certain Jap car which uses an adjustable rod very similar
to
>>that of the Spridget, I found one in the junk yard but the car was
>>upsidedown and besides, all them jap cars look the same to me.
>>
>>And fashioning a home made rod is not very difficult even if one does
>>use an acorn nut on it to extend it!
>>--
>>Frank Clarici Toms River, NJ
>>Too many LBCs
>>3 Sprites, an Austin A40, and an Austin Mini all on the road.
>>1 Jaguar XJ6 family car, 1 Racer Midget project , & 2 Parts
Spridgets
>>Check out my home page at http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-----------------
>>
>
>
>
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