David,
You wrote:
. Idle is a little rough, but I will keep fine adjusting to
>get there--maybe learn how to adjust the Weber carb. When I turn what I
think
>is the mixture screw it has no effect on the idle until it reaches a certain
>point both ways, then it goes to hell. So I leave it somewhere in the middle
>of those points.
>------------------->
If what looks like an idle screw is the one that moves the throttle,
you've got the wrong one.
That screw that moves the linkage should be no more than 1-1/2 turns in
from when the linkage begins to move. The primary throttle plate should be
JUST open. Then using the other screw... the one that is a needle valve
that has a spring around it at the base of the carb, screw that in to seat
then back out 1-1/2 turns. Now you can start the car and it WILL idle. Now,
once the car is warmed (stat open), turn the throttle plate screw to
achieve desired idle SPEED, then turn the needle valve to achieve the
highest even idle speed. If that is too high, go back and adjust the
throttle plate screw out to slow it down, then go and adjust the needle
valve in or out to get a fast even idle. You keep doing this back and forth
until it's perfect. I can get them to idle at 600 and run fast and clean.
Just keep "dinking" (a Wisconsin word) with it. You have to remember that
no gas goes through the throat of the carb when idling.... only air (which
is what you are metering with the throttle screw. All of the air/fuel
mixture for idle goes past the needle valve.
Good luck. Peter C.
Peter Caldwell
1 very rough Innocenti
(the Sprite with an accent)
among other LBCs and 4WDBCs
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