Mike & Alan
You are both semi correct. The MKII with disc brakes and MKIII (Sprites)
63-66 used a 3/4" master which looks and fits the same as a Bugeye
except the Bugeye and early 4 wheel drum models used a 7/8" bore master.
The 3/4 bore works better on disc brake systems.
1967 Spridgets still had a 3/4 bore master but with a separate clutch
master, 1968 started the dual brake system which will bolt right in on
the early cars with out modifications to the body.
So 58 thru 66 are all interchangable, 67 is unique, 68 and up are all
dual systems. (These are US model years, exact dates of vehicle
manufacture may very by a few months)
I hope this helps
Frank
Mike Gigante wrote:
>
> The MkIII sprite definitely doesn't have the dual hydraulics. I *think*
> the MkIV started with the single and switched to dual - I'll have to double
> check the change over to dual line.
>
> Sorry about the confusion. To be safe until the c/o point is clarified,
> use a MkIII M/C
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Griffith <Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com>
> To: 'Mike Gigante' <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Herold Faulkner
> <faulkner@redshift.com>; spridgets@Autox.Team.Net <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
> Date: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 7:39 AM
> Subject: Master-cylinder conversion.
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Gigante [SMTP:mikeg@vicnet.net.au]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 2:50 PM
> > To: Herold Faulkner; spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: Re: Disk brakes, heater.
> >
> > If you are converting to disk brake front end, then I do think you
> > should use the MkIII/IV rear brakes as well and the MkIII/IV master
> > cylinder.
> >
> > *But aren't the MKIII/IV brakes a dual line system with a much wider
> >master-cylinder/pedal box? How do you fit it in where a narrow one, from
> the
> >MKII, was without cutting up the fire wall?
> > -Drew
> > '62MKII w/ Toyota 18RG
> >
> > I have the Cabon/Kevlar pads and shoes (from Speedwell). they are
> >the
> > best brakes I have ever had on a spridget - even better than the big
> >disk
> > conversions.
> >
> > Normal pedal pressure is lower, ultimate braking force is higher,
> >they
> > seem almost fade-proof. They are expensive, but I think they are
> >well worth
> > it.
> >
> > The bad news is that at least the compound I have (race) eat rotors
> >for
> > breakfast if you use them on the road. Two rotors for one set of
> >pads
> > (but that was over 2 years). Since I have gone to single-use (track
> >only),
> > the rotor wear rate has been must more reasonable.
> >
> > The local guy I have spoken to has two compounds - street and track.
> >I've
> > ordered a street set for my road/rally bugeye. He tells me that the
> >street
> > set
> > will fade if used on the track, but do not chew the rotors when used
> >at
> > cooler
> > temps (i.e. street).
> >
> > I still have the race compound on my racecar.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Herold Faulkner <faulkner@redshift.com>
> > To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Tuesday, October 27, 1998 7:20 PM
> > Subject: Disk brakes, heater.
> >
> >
> > >Sprigiteers,
> > >
> > >Can anyone out there tell me anything about disk brake conversions?
> >Like
> > >specifically should one also replace the rear drums with larger
> >ones to
> > >maintain balance?
> > >
> > >Has anyone tried Kevlar pads/shoes? What are the advantages and
> > >disadvantages?
> > >
> > >Finally, does anyone have any idea what a replacement heater
> >assembly
> > (used)
> > >is worth. What should I plan to replace (core,etc)and what is
> >likely to be
> > >missing and hard as all getout to find new or used (control
> >switch?)
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Hall
> > >
> >
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Lots of LBCs
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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