Hey Larry,
A good dousing of LSA (Lubricant Small Arms) available at most
army/navy stores, Wrap them in wax paper and store in a nice dry place
has worked for me. The LSA or similar product tends to keep the gaskets
from drying out and stops any corrosion from happening. If you use carb
cleaner (I don't, I just blow all the gas out with compressed air) it
tends to chill the metal and cause moisture to condense on it, heat the
carbs up slightly with a heat gun to make sure all moisture is
evaporated, before applying LSA.
Regards,
Peter.
>Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:34:35 -0800 (PST)
>From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
>To: Larry Miller <millerls@ado13.com>
>cc: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Weber DGV
>Reply-To: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
>
>On Tue, 16 Feb 1999, Larry Miller wrote:
>
>> The Weber DGV I just removed from the Bugeye is going into storage
for a
>> while. Any suggestions on what I should do now to help prevent having
to
>> rebuild it when it comes out of storage?
>
>I would take the lid off and spray everything through with some carb
>cleaner to get all the gas out so that it doesn't gum up.. Then put it
in
>a plastic bag with some drying agent in it.
>
>I have some double Webers that have been stored for 10 years in a shed
and
>they have some of that white corrosion on the outside and inside. Not
too
>bad though. They will need a disassembly and cleaning.
>
>And for all the Weber guys with problems. Buy the book "Weber
>Carburetors" by Pat Braden. He explains the inner workings very well
and
>you actually gain enough insight to figure out what to change to
eliminate
>flat spots. It's actually fairly easy reading.
>
>Ulix
>32 DMTRA-200
>34 DMTR
>(2x) 40 DCNF-12
>(6x) HS2
>
> Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|\__
>..............................................(_o____o_)....<_O_____O_/...
> '67 Sprite '74 X1/9
>
>
|