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Re: Bearing replacement

To: Patton Dickson <kpdii@mindspring.com>, "Spridgets@autox.team.net" <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Bearing replacement
From: Gerard Chateauvieux <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:36:56 -0700
In-reply-to: <199906211717.NAA22725@smtp5.mindspring.com>
Reply-to: Gerard Chateauvieux <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Patton,

>From you description, I'm not sure this engine warrants being torn down for
the sound you hear. Are you even sure this sound is coming from the
crankshaft? How many miles do you have on this engine? There are other
sources for the sound you're hearing, make sure you're chasing the right
noise. That said...

This probably could be done in the car... but I personally would want to do
it that way. Things to consider include:

* Besides the main bolts, the front main bearing cap is secured by two
bolts through the front mounting plate. This requires that the timing cover
be removed to gain access. For some reason, I'm thinking there is some
impediment at the rear main too, but can't recall it from memory now.

* This operation should be performed in a really clean environment to
insure no debris finds it's way into the bearing shells or any other
critical parts. I think this would be really hard to do while laying under
the road grimey underside of even the cleanest of cars.

* You won't know the condition of the crank until you can visually inspect
it for scoring. Wear will NOT be the same through all the journals. If only
one is bad, you'll want to pull the crank. If you do that you might as well
do rings and valves too, not to mention inspecting other things like cam
bearings and rocker shaft, etc.

* You should use Plasti-guage to check you bearing clearances before
closing things up. That means torquing and removing each cap before final
assembly.

* I can't imagine trying to do all this while laying on my back under the
car! I would even want to do this on my lift.


In my opinion, the engine is a pretty easy r&r process (of course I've done
it many times so...) and would make the job at hand easier in the long run.

Gerard

At 10:17 AM -0800 6/21/99, Patton Dickson wrote:
>Am I remembering correctlly, or is it possible to replace the rod and main
>bearings with the engine in the car?  The car has a very slight knock that
>I would like to fix, and I have very good and consistant compression, so I
>would like to put off a full rebuild for a while.
>
>Am I right in thinking that since I have the nitrite crank, wear should be
>negligible?  If that is the case, I would not be taking a very big risk with
>standard bearings.
>
>Are there any issues concerning the rear main oil leak issue that I need
>to consider.
>
>The motor really sounds good, and it took an "expert" to point out the knock,
>and I still only hear it after the engine is warmed up and I listen very
>closely.
>
>I want this drivetrain in shape to be used an unrestored weekend driver by
>the end
>of the summer...  I am so sick of the car sitting in the carport I will
>probabllly take the
>car to Macco to put a temporary 20 feet @ 2o MPH paintjob on it to drive
>it around town.
>I am going to take a week off in early August just to work on the Sprite,
>hopefully I
>can get these goals done.  I figure that running car is more importatnt to
>me than anything
>else at this point.
>
>Patton (Potential Dumb Current Owner)


G G              Gerard Chateauvieux
 E A
  R R        pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
   A A
    R G          Pixelsmith  on  Duty
     D E
      S      http://www.gerardsgarage.com





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