If you are just talking about repairing the area where the rear springs
attach, that shouldn' cost much more than a couple hundred dollars to fix;
but if you are talking about repairing rust problems in the floors, wheel
wells, rockers, fenders, trunk, etc., then $5,000 is probably pretty
accurate, in my experience.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles D. Sorkin <cdsorkin@ix.netcom.com>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 15, 1999 10:16 AM
Subject: Solving a bodywork problem
>Dear List:
>
>I recently purchased a 1974 Midget, the 1275 style. The engine and
>transmission are relatively healthy, and the former owner has done a
>relatively decent job of improving the engine to near original condition.
>However, when taking the car over to the mechanic's shop to accomplish some
>brake work, he noticed while the car was up on the lift that there is
>substantial rust near the rear drivers side wheel well in the area where
the
>suspension spring attaches to the frame. He is rather concerned by this,
as
>the end result in a few years will be that the spring will become
>unattatched, and the back corner of the car will fall to the ground (aginst
>the wheel), and probably while the car is in motion.
>
>He is reluctant to do any repairs himself for the liability issue, and the
>fellow suggested that it is probably not economical to do any further
>maintenance on the car. (i.e., throw it away). However, upon further
>conversation with him, when I made it known that the car is a restoration
>project and that over a long time frame (say 10 years) I would probably
>spend thousands of dollars regardless of the current state of rust, he then
>estimated that the cost of such a repair might be on the order of $5,000.
>
>Does anybody have any experience with such a frame rust problem? Do any
>list members have any ideas about how to go about fabricating a safe and
>secure repair, given the unibody construction of the 1275 Midget? What
were
>the costs involved?
>
>I am still in the denial phase presently, but given my long-term plans for
>the car, it does not seem to make much of a difference whether or not I
>start with a strong (but rusty) vehicle in which I've invested about $1500,
>or start over with a rust free car (which could cost as much as $3000) that
>needs mechanical work. My impression is that many folks have achieved
>excellent results starting with less resources, and still have safe,
>satisfactory, and good looking vehicles.
>
>Regards,
>
>Charles
>'74 Midget
>cdsorkin@ix.netcom.com
>Bloomfield, NJ
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