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Re: Rear Dick Brakes--Serious reply.

To: <Lancer7676@aol.com>, <millerls@ado13.com>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Dick Brakes--Serious reply.
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 14:36:22 -0500
References: <63afd33d.25290352@aol.com>
Reply-to: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
One of the reason's the Red Rat Bastard is so fast out of the corners is
that I don't use the brakes much... that is, I use them late and get off
them early, and then get on the gas early. The other reason is extreme
confidence in their effectiveness.

Now, I'm racing a 948... so this advice might not be apllicable to some of
the "cheatin dog" 1380cc psuedo Sprites like Dr. Jahimiak the Maniac
races... some of those guys have converted the fronts to that MGB/Spitfire
parts combo.

Using stock components...I have Hawk Blue pads up front, and kevlar lined
shoes in the back (Winner's Circle). One track that I spend a lot of time
at, Blackhawk is considered by many to be the hardest track in North America
on brakes, because of 7 hard turns with braking zones and no time to cool.
No problem... in fact, I've never faded them... not even once. The other
track that I've spent quite a bit of time at, Road America, has lots more
time in between brake points to allow them to cool... but you're speeds that
you're hauling down from are significantly higher... say 100 to 110 mph.
Again, no fade. For example, one time I had to use a set of Ferrodo (sp?)
pads while at Summit Point, I faded them completely in 1 1/2 laps...so the
Hawk Blues are great. They maintain very good efficiency even when worn
significantly.

I'm using SuperBlue fluid...although I had good luck with AP 550 as well.
Castrol LMA Dot 4 has a boiling point about 100 degrees less... so careful
choice of brake fluid is an important factor. SuperBlue is available from
some race shops, and also from lots of BMW dealers... which makes it
convenient when you're in a rush to find some...

Another thing that increases both confidence and pedal pressure in a Sprite
is to make sure your rear drums are within spec. They're pretty cheap to
replace. Also, check the adjuster and the feet that meet the shoes for wear.

A few years ago there was a guy at Texas Healey Roundup that had an
interesting and inexpensive rear disk conversion....

WST
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lancer7676@aol.com>
To: <millerls@ado13.com>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Dick Brakes--Serious reply.


> In a message dated 10/3/99 2:41:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> millerls@ado13.com writes:
>
> << I just saw an ad in a racing magazine for Winner's Circle for a bolt on
> rear
>  disk brake conversion for a Spridget. >>
>
> I don't understand the reason for a rear disk brake converson for the
rear,
> especially on a Spridget.  The front end takes what, 75-80% of the braking
> pressure?   Seems to me like it would be money spent that could be used on
a
> more crucial modification.  Of course, it allows the owner to stick his
> thumbs in his lapel, rare back, and announce to all listeners, "An she's
got
> full 4-wheel disk brakes!"
>
> Maybe for racing, but even there, I would wonder if rear disks would be as
> crucial as larger front disks and/or the cross-drilled disks.  Maybe WST,
> Keith Turk or one of the other racers will enlighten us on that.
>
> ---David C.
>


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