Ajhsys@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/10/00 2:26:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> fooshst@stumail.gc.cc.fl.us writes:
>
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>
> You didn't say which year and model car you have. It's a good idea to always
> have that info in your e-mail .sig file so you don't forget it.
>
Sorry, '69 MkIV (MCMLXIX) with 1275.
> Ignition timing can EASILY cause this running problem. Get a cheapy remote
> starter switch at Pep Boys and hook it up to the starter solenoid.
> Instructions come with it. Then you don't need a helper. (Also comes in
> handy when it's time to adjust the valve lash.)
>
> Set the car to TDC on the front cylinder (#1) on the compression stroke (this
> is easier to do than it sounds if you just think it through) and then adjust
> the distributor so that the points are closed when the rotor is pointing
> toward the #1 plug wire. This is called static timing. It is not quite as
> easy with the electronic ignition on the later cars. The car should run with
> it set that way, but you really need to set the correct advance for any kind
> of performance. (The plug should fire before the piston gets to TDC. How
> much before, depends on which engine.)
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Allen Hefner
> SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
> '77 Midget
> '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
I did set it as close as I could to TDC when I accidentally pulled the
dizzy out of the engine while trying to turn it. See, I have this little
m**s oil filter adapter kit, and one of the custom oil leaking devices
runs right across the dizzy adjustment tightening nut. It makes me say
bad words from time to time. More than likely, I set it wrong. Thanks.
--
Two cars and a bike, and I WALK to school!
1987 RX-7 TII: Stops making power at about 7000 rpm.
1990 GS 500-E: Starts making power at about 7000 rpm.
MCMLXIX Sprite: Becomes a study in ballistics at about 7000 rpm.
How can they call it "drag" racing if they're not wearing skirts?
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