For my main freestanding bench, I used SOLID CORE doors. Make sure you have
the solid core (you'll know when you pick one up) and not the hollow
cardboard cored ones. The doors I used are vinyl coated woodgrain, and come
70" long and 36" wide. The actual benchtop is 1 3/4" thick, and the shelf
underneath is 1 3/8" thick. They look nice and are quite durable, and if you
have a shop that makes them near you they usually have some damaged slab
doors for sale cheap.
Mike Ellsworth
71 Midget
62 Sprite
----- Original Message -----
From Frank Clarici <spritenut at Exit109.com>
To: Dan O'Shea <danoshea@idsi.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: The Workbench (long--was The Garage)
> Dan O'Shea wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on what to use for the top?? I'll also gladly entertain any
> > other design suggestions. And, thank you for all the input so far!
This
> > list never ceases to amaze me.
>
> Dan
>
> I use brand new formica countertops. But then I know a countertop guy
> and he saves me all his screw ups. Once or twice a year I replace the
> whole top.
> Formica cleans up great but it does not stand up to drill bits, angry
> fits with a BFH, or other hammering jobs directly on the top.
> In my basement I have double 3/4 plywood top with a 1/4 plywood skin.
> When the 1/4" gets really beat, I just replace it.
> There again, I'm in the trades and if I have scraps, I put them to use.
> A back splash on the work bench is invaluable. I have a 1x4 pine back
> splash where I have holes drilled in for the pen, pencil, screw gun tip,
> magic marker, small screw driver, picks, and what ever else falls
> through the cracks.
> Make the work surface easily replaceable. No matter how neat you try to
> keep it, it will get messed up. If it doesn't, your not working
> diligently enough.
>
>
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> Down to only 3 Sprites, 1 Midget and an A40 Farina
> http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
>
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