Jason,
Maybe I can help....
At 10:40 PM 6/8/2000, Jason Urban wrote:
>1) How critical is it that the kingpin cotter pin be driven all the way
>thru?? I can't get it past the first thread showing. Can the assembly
>take a lot of beating to get this through?? I'm just not sure how much
>drifting before something breaks.
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If you mean the cotter locating the kingpin to the lower trunion pin, it
should be able to go in all the way... in fact, if all is right it pushes
in quite easily. My experience has been that if it doesn't that either the
trunion isn't quite rotated far enough, or (more likely) the trunion pin
isn't screwed all the way into the control arm. When doing this on the work
bench, one is tempted to lay the kingpin out as opposed to it's in-the-car
90* attitude. If you do that, you can't get the cotter all the way in.
Angle the kingpin and I think you'll have more success. Of course I'm
suggesting you have to take out the cotter you've been installing.... that
is the hardest part when you want to save it.
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>2) Can an alignment be done by myself so that I can drive about 100 miles??
> I won't be able to take it to the local shop before the guy leaves for a
>trip to Europe. In the meantime, I have a tour to run. I've had a few
>suggestions(thanks Al!), but I could always use more.
>3) I need to install the inner roller hub bearing(a Tyvek(?) I think).
>Which way round should this be installed?? There are no markings on the
>bearing. I know this came up before, so I'll check the archives when I get
>to work tomorrow.
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Timken roller bearing? This is one you took out, right? Or it's to replace
the same. The outer bearing needs to be the same kind (roller)... you can't
mix.
Hope this helps.
Peter C
"They're just stirring up a can of worms" John Rocker
>Thanks!! Hope to see you on the road or at Hellertown this weekend!!
>Jason.
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