Folks, I'll interject some experience I have with this. I'm kind of busy,
so please don't misunderstand my brevity for terseness.
Take the float bowl lid with float attached (yes, wont work with H
or HIF carbs.. you have HS), invert the lid (float is up) blow into the
fuel line pipe with you mouth. If you can hear air getting past the needle
and seat, then they are worn and need changing. Now, adjust the float
height to the book specs (7/16" if I remember correctly) a proper size
drill bit works for this. If with the drill bit in place between the float
and the lid you can blow air past the needle and seat, then shim the seat
down with washers as described by others. The pressure you can blow at is
pretty close to what the fuel pressure is. Real simple, real quick, real
reliable.
HTH Peter C
oh... adding JB weld will likely increase the weight of the float.... not
helpful at all.
----
At 10:29 PM 11/8/2000, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> I have to take issue with this statement. Shimming the needle and
>seat assembly is done to adjust the fuel level in the bowl alright but
>it assumes the float valve doesn't leak. Carb overflowing occurs
>because the valve won't close. You can't adjust the level until you
>find and correct the problem.
>
> Cheers,
>
> CR
>
>David Ramsey wrote:
> >
> > I thought everybody knew that to adjust the float level on the later SU's
> > with the plastic floats, you use spacer washers of the required
> thickness to
> > shim the "jet housing" to the body of the carb. .... If your flooding
> you use a thicker washer.
>
> SNIP
> > Crash
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