Did mine with a MityVac vacuum pump. Got the bleed screw finger tight and
rotated it with the clear plastic line to open for vacuum pressure. Build the
pressure in the MityVac and then open the bleed screw. Close off the bleed
finger tight with the plastic tubung and build pressure in the MityVac again.
After about 5-10 minutes of this the line was bled. When finished, tightened the
bleed screw. (be careful and never overtighten a bleed screw. Make sure the
master does not run out of brake fluid while doing this process. The pump can
pull a lot of fluid through the system (and air bubbles).
Mike MacLean Supercharged 60 Sprite
David McCartney wrote:
> Well Clay, this is an arcane area you have entered. By the time you have
> read everything here, you will begin to think of the Spridget hydraulic
> system as a dark whole.
> First, my dream for a never/next time fix: While you have it out, make
> up an extension to the slave bleed, so it is forward and more accessible?
> Perhaps a flexible brakeline/clutch hoseline with the end fitted into
> the RH footwell with a bleed nipple in there? Hey I really like that idea!
> I spose higher is better and you could make it long enuf to have the end
> mounted (firmly) up by the masters. Now you can bleed it comfortably.
> These are what I imagine doing if I ever run a ribcase again for myself.
> The first bit of the new bleed line would have to be flex, no matter what.
> The angle the cyl is mounted at does not facilitate full bleeding and
> of course is torturous to the hands. I noticed a recent list mention of
> jacking up the front of the car to improve the angle and let them damn
> bubbles escape.
> Other bleeding helps are to manually push the piston back to help bleed
> the bubbles, then wait for slow bubbles and bleed. If you have snaky little
> hands, these paragraph's stuff might work for you with no further mods.
> Pushing the piston back could cause the air to rise up the line to the
> highest point in the line and it is tempting to consider a bleed screw
> at that point, or loosening the fitting while someone is pushing the
> clutch pedal and you take precautions against spraying brake fluid on
> your perfect paint job.
> When first researching this, I got an answer from Moss's help guy: (Finger-
> tight bleed screw, opening with fingertips and listen for bubbles) and I
> found an article on it on the Sac MG club's website written by Norman
> Nock (longstanding shop in Stockton).
> I did manage to get mine to work using a spare tire (low)pressure bleeding
> system and bits of the above so I quit while ahead.
> I had a scar for a long time from doing up the top bolt on the slave.
> One bad solution said to bleed the slave at a better angle by undoing
> the mounting bolts and rotating the slave. I got no satisfaction.
> Did you see the one where the brake hydraulics were used to force fluid
> from that system backwards thru the clutch slave bleeder? Hey why not.
> This gives you some idea of the degree of difficulty. I logged many hours
> trying to do it by the manual without success.
> David McCartney
> 71 MIdget
> 72 Mini PU
> 69 AA
> Clayton La Baw wrote:
> > Spridgeteers -
> > I recently had a catastrophic loss of clutch function while on a drive.
> > It's amazing how well a really 'used' ribcase works without a clutch. After
> > getting side tracked by a front brake problem that ended up going all the
> > way to a trunnion rebuild (many dismal war stories there!), I got to the
> > slave cylinder on Tuesday last. To say that the bellows was "perished" is
> > to do the word a disservice. The slave cylinder had only one mounting bolt
> > in place. After removing the (bent) clevis pin, the pushrod fell off on
> > the floor. I removed the remaining mounting bolt and the rest of the
> > cylinder dropped down, hanging from the flex hose. I got it onto the bench
> > and found that the inner end of the pushrod had been forced into the hex
> > cavity of a half-inch diameter by half inch length set screw. This rested
> > on top of a 5/8" diameter by half inch long set screw which, in turn, sat
> > in the conical cavity of the piston. There was no circlip, the bellows
> > (formerly) being the only thing holding this all together. Pulling the
> > piston, I found that it was a 'groove-seal' type and that no "cup" was
> > present. Also, a two-inch long (free length) coil spring was below the
> > piston and no cup filler was installed. The cylinder has a two-row cast-in
> > marking: 3233-237C over Q251. It appears that the DPO or his designated
> > paid representative, came up with a hybrid 1275/1500 assembly.
> > I had neglected this area before 'cuz the clutch worked fine, up to the
> > point of failure, and there were many other demons to chase.
> > Now my question. After replacing the slave cylinder, I'll bleed the system
> > per the Haynes manual. Regarding paragraph 2.1, what do I need to know
> > about the "clean jam jar"? Flavor? Size? Brand?
> > Clay L.
> > '67 Sprite