Larry,
The best stuff I've found on the market is "Alumaloy" but it's fairly
expensive. Northern and Harbor Fr8 both carry a pretty good rod/flux/brush
kit. The trick is to get the work as clean as it can get, use a Mapp torch (a
regular propane torch head works but not as good as the one designed for Mapp
bottle) and keep the work a few degrees above the melting point of the
alloy which is about 730. You will mostly find that the connection falls in
the realm of true soldering (below 780f as I recall from my now 30 year old
metalurgy classes...) but some actual weldments will form at the periphery
of the puddle surface and the material. The welds are grainy and porus, and
don't add much strength, so I simply fill them in with more puddled rod.
I've repaired my ladder, a couple of Weber intakes and fabricated a door
striker latch for a 58 MGA out of the stuff. I also had good luck using
1/8" 4043 aluminum rod with the Alumaloy flux and an oxyacetylene torch to
repair a tear in the door.
Mark
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