spridgets
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: aluminum soldering/welding.

To: <IfixMGs@aol.com>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum soldering/welding.
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 07:59:13 -0600
References: <13e.3244786.2900e3f6@aol.com>
One more thought. After the weld is completed. Re-heat the weld and then
quench with water. This will return the aluminum to it's malleable state.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{)  '54 BN1

----- Original Message -----
From <IfixMGs at aol.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: aluminum soldering/welding.


> Larry,
>    The best stuff I've found on the market is "Alumaloy" but it's fairly
> expensive. Northern and Harbor Fr8 both carry a pretty good rod/flux/brush
> kit. The trick is to get the work as clean as it can get, use a Mapp torch
(a
> regular propane torch head works but not as good as the one designed for
Mapp
> bottle)   and keep the work a few degrees above the melting point of the
> alloy which is about 730.  You will mostly find that the connection falls
in
> the realm of true soldering (below 780f as I recall from my now 30 year
old
> metalurgy classes...)  but some actual weldments will form at the
periphery
> of the puddle surface and the material. The welds are grainy and porus,
and
> don't add much strength, so I simply fill them in with more puddled rod.
> I've repaired my ladder, a couple of Weber intakes and fabricated a door
> striker latch for a 58 MGA out of the stuff.   I also had good luck using
> 1/8" 4043 aluminum rod with the Alumaloy flux and an oxyacetylene torch to
> repair a tear in the door.



<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>